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Outside each bathroom there is a 1.5mm live supply into a light switch and from there a 1.5mm cable to the lights. The live supply goes straight to the fusebox and has its own fuse. I add another cable from the light switch to the towel rail and another cable to the fan. I also add one more gang...

I have forgotten to allow a dedicated circuit for a towel rail on all bathrooms and as a solution i have hijacked power from the lights circuit. The wiring is 1.5mm to the lights switch. The wiring to the towel rail is also 1.5mm. The towel rails on the market are 250W mostly, some are a bit...

Can i wire a fan on the same circuit as the bathroom lights without an isolator or any other gadgets, so a simple on/off? The feed to the fan is a 2+1 1.5mm same as the lights, but i was told instead i needed a 3+1cable and an isolator switch.

I was thinking as mortar tends to shrink and crack a lot, there are other fillers I could use, hardwall, repair mixes, adhesives, grouts, etc and wanted to see if anyone has experience with something that will work well with those "soft" blocks to close those large holes but also other cracks...

Yes it did bounce terribly with a man weighing just 62kg on it! So I have turned the 4x2 on their narrow edge, but have not tried them with a live load yet. As you said, I do not expect miracles and still expect bouncing, even with noggins and with the coverings on ( a sheet of ply and the...

I have opened some "pigeon" holes into a number of blocks in order to put joists through, about 50 x 100 each. I then changed my mind about the joists (there is another thread) and made more holes higher up. I would like to close up the extra holes (on the photo, the bottom row) and am...

Thanks guys. I have used expanding foam extensively in other situations, but in this case I wanted something more structural to close the gaps. I recently bought a mortar gun (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AX08IWS), If I mix 1:2 or 1:3 muck and make it runny and try to see how it...

OK, so I need to tape all joints between plasterboards, insulated or not. If some gaps are larger, or there is some small areas of damage, say bashed plasterboard corners, is it better to fill the larger gaps with something or let the gap be and simply tape over it? ************************...

I blocked off a cavity around a door opening using 100mm blocks in between existing 100mm blocks forming the cavity wall. There are many vertical gaps between the blocks on the sides, some very small, some larger, and a significant gap over and above where I placed a concrete lintel on its...

Hi guys, I have these basic questions as I am about to have some plastering done. Is it recommended or obligatory to scrim tape the joint at the top of the wall where it meets the ceiling? Will this help or prevent cracks? Or is coving the only way? We have plasterboards fixed into the...

This is what I did today, in preparation for plastering.

Ah OK I have seen dozens of these, maybe have wired one or two as well (immersion heater and cooker comes to mind). Is it allowed to hide it behind the body of the radiator? Or must the face plate be visible at all times (which would make more sense) ?

It will not be, it is far from the shower and sink. What is a "flex outlet plate" ? I do not really need a switch on the wall, it is just a visual indication that there is a cable in the wall running from the ceiling vertically down to it. The towel rail's own switch will be next to the light...

I have just thought, I could/will have a very visible switch near the radiator and then run a cable to the switch. From the switch an external cable to the radiator's heated element. I was hoping to be able to hide the "switch" and minimise the external cable. For the vanity unit's mirror...

I want to provide cables for a mirror light and a heated towel radiator into a new bathroom. I am trying to decide on the cable route. From the outside wall light switch, one cable running to the mirror and another cable running to the towel rail which is further away. For the routing, I have...

I have been adding noggins and supports, every foot or so, to pick up the edges of the ceiling boards. They are 37.5mm insulated boards, softer at the back, so we need good support for them. The whole process is a pain, especially on the side of the room over the cavity wall because I cannot...

The walls were in place before the ceiling joists and noggins were installed. I am fitting 12mm ply up on the ceilings and the plasterboards over, may be the ply will steady the plasterboards at their edges. Else, yes it would be a hassle... Yes it is called "hardwall" as per photo, snd then...

There will be no wall boards I am using hardwall. The gap is like 95-100mm.

Quite some time ago I hired a carpenter to build a flat roof over a couple of rooms. I am now looking at it and realise that i would have preferred the joists and noggins be flush against the walls so as to give me something to fix the edges of ceiling boards on. Now there is a gap all around...

That is exactly what I will do as i was quoted ridiculous prices for a gap fill... It is about £5 per can of foam. I wonder why they do not sell larger bottles.