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Just get rid of the old cistern and replace it with a plastic one. Cleaning off all the old rust and converting what's left will be VERY time consuming and may actually perforate the cistern anyway. Any treatment you then apply to "waterproof" it may not last long and end up flaking off and...

It seems unlikely that a gas pipe would have a drain cock fitted to it.

Yes, don't bother with replacing the diaphragm - just get a complete new inlet valve, they are as cheap as chips

The plastic 4" cap on the right will easily allow a wooden dipstick to be inserted. Some tanker drivers use this aperture to fill the tank with a nozzle rested into the aperture, rather than bothering with unscrewing the metal cap and screwing on the delivery pipe.

The easiest way to fix this is just to fit a new inlet valve assembly - they're very cheap. It's really not worth the bother trying to replace internal parts - even if you can get them. But as you say, it's really the housing association's job to do this, but if that's true, why is the water...

Yes, go for quality even though you'll have to pay more. In a new house I noticed the builders had fitted very cheap looking isolation taps. The first time I tried to use one of these to replace a tap cartridge the lever shaft broke off and a jet of mains pressure water shot out. The only way I...

Mixer taps do work with cold and hot at different pressures. I have one working on HW supplied via a loft tank, and CW from the mains. It's just that you don't get equal mixing with the mixer control in its mid position. To get enough HW in the mix you need to move the control further over to...

Your points taken. But if the OP has a basin with two holes in it and wants to fit a central mixer tap, the only option - other than trying to find a mixer tap system that spans the two holes - is to replace the basin with one that just has a hole in the middle. Covering one of the holes in the...

You can get monobloc mixer taps that have a base that covers the 2 holes in an originally separate taps basin. Just Google "mixer taps for 2 hole basins" and you'll see quite a selection

You can get monobloc mixer taps that have a base that covers the 2 holes in an originally separate taps basin.

Tightening it a bit is certainly worth trying but if that doesn't work you will have to dismantle the joint. To do that you'll need to remove the 3 screws holding the tap to the wall (which given their rusty appearance may be a bit of a struggle. Why don't people use brass or stainless steel...

If the flush isn't working properly you only need to replace the flush valve. If you really want to replace the entire cistern, finding one that will fit your existing toilet bowl will be difficult and you'd be better replacing the whole toilet - bowl and cistern

This is confusing. The 2nd sentence says you get no water at all when the tap is turned all the way to the right. But then the 4th sentence says that when the tap is turned all the way to the right you get cold water. So which is it?

The thread on a compression joint does NOT form any part of the seal. It's the olive, compressed against the pipe and against the compression fitting, that seals the joint. So PTFE tape will/may only work if wrapped around the olive - it won't do anything if wrapped around the threads.

I've always found that 15mm olives fit 1/2" imperial copper tube without a problem. Perhaps your 1/2" tube is slightly over size? The only imperial copper tube that requires a specific "conversion" olive is 3/4" and, if these are used a good joint with a 22mm compression fitting can be made...

When you say you have a replacement tee, is that a Marley Equator? If so, the supplier might be able to provide a demounting tool. If it isn't a Marley Equator tee then, even if you get the old one off by brute force, you may be left with a pipe in the wall to which you cannot connect the new...

Actually it's difficult to see from the picture if there actually IS a gully beneath the plastic grid. If there is then the above advice is correct. If there isn't then presumably the waste is just discharging into the ground - or maybe some sort of crude soakaway?

You'll maybe want to take the cover off at sometime in the future to get at the cartidge if it needs replacement, so I definitely wouldn't glue it into place. If you can tighten the grub screw sufficiently to secure the cover (but then it works loose) I would use Loctite Threadlock (not glue) on...

Yes, column radiators look very trendy but rely mainly on radiation to heat the room. The conventional panel radiators with "wavy steel" behind them or between two panels mainly heat via convection, so warm air continually rises from them. This is more efficent at heating a room.

Have you located where the tank is actually leaking from? If none of the pipe connections are leaking, and it's not leaking around the fill valve connection, then there must be some sort of pinhole that's formed. But that's pretty much unheard of with a plastic tank. You only need to go to all...