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I'm building a 3m x 5m outbuilding. The back and one side (that won't be seen) will be in block. The front and one side (that will be seen) will be in brick. The bricks are reclaimed, and three courses are taller than a block. How do I bond the corners, where blocks meet bricks?

Just checked online and it does. You probably think I'm a wimp, but when you've had your hand sewn back together once it tends to make you a little cautious ;-)

Thank you, that's very helpful. Do you know if the Erbauer also has soft start?

Speaking purely personally I wouldn't bother with adding struts. Once you've screwed the OSB to the joists you have a fairly solid structure anyway. I prefer to use the full sheets because it's less faffing about. If you lay them with the long edges along the joists (cut if necessary so the...

That's good to know. All the 9" grinders I've used have been old ones, where you had to change grip to knock off a locked-on switch.

Thanks. There's no mention of a dead man's switch, though. Having looked around some more, Metabo grinders seem to have both. To be honest, although I use one occasionally, I'm scared s**tless of large grinders, having almost lost my hand to one a few years ago. So knowing that it will stop if...

Does it have its firebricks, or are we looking at rusty cast iron inside, in the photo?

Can anyone recommend a reasonably priced 230mm angle grinder with soft start, and a dead man's switch? I've looked at Toolstation's website and it's not clear which if any have the latter

I don't think it's the software; it's the people

I honestly think that after two or three coats of paint, you won't be able to tell the difference.

For up to half an inch here and there? I think you're over-thinking, and potentially making huge amounts of unnecessary work for yourself. It's a garage, not a piece of precision engineering.

I don't see the problem. Screw the OSB to the joists (it will follow any uppy downy bits), then do the EPDM. 10mm is not going to throw anything out. As long as the roof drains.

I don't see any reason not to, apart from the poor edges you mention. if you can live with those it will be a lot less work than stripping, especially if the plaster underneath proves not to be in good condition

Mythbusters dealt with a similar problem, with set concrete in a truck. They used explosives

Why not sand the floorboards, then oil them? Less expensive and it won't look fake for the house.

https://uk.trustpilot.com/review/skirtingboardsdirect.com

I've done two flat roofs (20 m2 and 25 m2), water based adhesive to the deck, not a ripple or bubble in either of them. There are videos on Youtube and here: http://www.rubba-seal.co.uk/ Laying out the EPDM to lose its creases is good practice. All the better if the sun is on it. Ideally you...

The joists may be within span, but is the chipboard flooring? If it's 22mm it is; if it's 18mm, it isn't.

Look at the blockwork - the joists are at 600 centres

I suggested a floorboard saw because he's going to have to cut right to the end