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Can I ask why? A colleague of mine also refuses.. he says they would force him to switch tariff.. which is not true, as I have gone through it and was not forced to do anything. it's for free, more accurate, you can monitor live...you don't need to switch.. I see no downside for me at least...

That is correct. When I moved over (whilst still being on one of the 50year old black rotor meters), I did not have any choice of smart tariffs. Once I got the smart meters, I had access to many more (excluding a few EV specific ones). There is no way of correctly measuring in 30 mins intervals...

I use Octopus Flux and quite happy with it, although rates are not as good this year as they were last year. They do differ by region, so make sure you check with the correct postcode. Last year the difference between daytime export and offpeak import for me was just 1 pence! So charged at 15p...

I assume different manufacturers have different setups, but I was facing a similar issue a few months ago. My flushboard cover is attached on the sides with clips. There is a special tool to unclip, but I just used suction cups (from a bathroom towel hanger). Attached on both sides, quick pull...

yeah I remember searching a while... if you get a pack of 5 or 10 it's ok, but I only needed one. So in the end I bit the bullet and went with amazon £15 quid....

I have used this tub in the past to patch up some brick work and some minor repointing. Will probably not use it again. - This "beige" is quite beige and very bright. I thought this beige would match my existing 3to1 sand cement mix, but it is way too bright and visually stands out - Very rich...

Alrighty, did end up draining the entire system, as I wanted to add some inhibitor and see how long it generally takes. Got myself V-2 jointing compound and exchanged all the olives, nuts and washers. Been running the system now for 30 mins, running up and down the house to bleed the rads. So...

Ok so, it has not been quite a full week yet but it is pretty evident that the leaking filling loop valves are the culprits. The pressure is still at 1.3 bar in a fully cooled state, so leakage into the CH system after I've capped off the valves. This is a reassuring results. I've already...

Thanks Terry, all done now. In case anyone reads this in the future >> Vaillant Ecotec plus 831 with two different sized filling loop ends require a 1/2" and 1/4" cap. I've reduced pressure back down to 1.5, then went around the house to bleed all the rads, and now down to 1.3 as my baseline...

owkey... board removed. It was dripping indeed, from both sides! More so from the left side than from the right. I've recorded a one minute video to illustrate the amount to drip, you need to have audio enable to listen for the drip. I suspect this should not be the case? the flexi also...

This is exactly what happened the first time. After the engineer attended, this did not happen anymore. Now, the pressure goes up by say 0.3-0.5 bar when central heating is used and drops down again when cooled down.This I reckon is normal. However in my system over time it slowly goes up, such...

Will do this evening. My filling loop is a flexi. Unfortunately the pipework has been boarded-up right to the bottom of the boiler making access to the flexi itself difficult, as its kinda pushed back to the wall. Maybe that's why nobody checked it properly in the past. The engineer did mention...

Ah, just noticed mods moved this into its own thread... Some background: ~Very old Vaillant Ecotec plus 831, 2005-2011 range, with output 24.4 kw / mostly microbore pipework / 6 medium and 2 large rads Been only living in this property for just under two years, but had to have boiler repairs...

Got a similar issue.... how long would you reckon to wait? Also, if the pressure increases only when the central heating is/has been running, would this exclude a leaky filling loop? Presumably a leaking filling loop would also increase the pressure even though no central heating has been used...

Thanks. Was hoping I could somehow do this all somehow from the inside and just order a frame online. Not a big fan of caring a large glas panel on a ladder there, it's higher than it looks. Will therefore probably ask for some professional help on this one, if not ridiculously expensive.

Hello Everyone, I need to replace the double glazed unit in one of my awning windows, as the seal has broken and the glass has become stained on the inside. How can I remove the window from the frame, so I can extract the actual window pane measure the exact size for a replacement? It looks...

Epilogue: I have bought a small piece of Bal Rapid Mat, which is only 1mm thick. Used 4mm notched trowel and then matting on top. This gave me an extra ~3mm height on a fairly stable even ground. Embedded the trim with adhesive and then tiled. Mad respect for tilers, as this was not easy! I...

k so the free 4mm backer board sample arrived. The Idea would be to just place it inside the trim. I've put a straight edge on it to see how much space I have.... However, I don't think it will work. On the lowest side I would have a 3mm to play with, but it would still be quite tight if I...

yeah you are right, that is surely true. The metal trim itself needs to be raised by 3mm, however the trim itself also adds 1-2mm on the edge only. Whilst this gap is doable for the tiles sitting ON/around the trim, most of the surface centre is still short by 3mm+2mm=5mm as confirmed by the...

Just found a company that ships out free samples of 4mm tile backerboard. This might work to bridge the gap, such as that I can do the final tile laying with my 4mm notch trowel instead of faffing around trying to lay a level 5mm thick adhesive bed.