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Theres hot water but how much Im not sure - I'll find out in the morning I guess

Above that Flow marker is the valve from the F&E Tank into the system

Its connected to the return pipe at the base of the coil. I'll change that out for a proper bleed valve, still getting my head the plumbing in this place... Yes, Ive hit the 'boost' button for hot water, it fires up then goes back to standby mode after a minute or two leaving the Boost light...

Its connected to the return pipe at the base of the coil. I'll change that out for a proper bleed valve, still getting my head the plumbing in this place... Yes, Ive hit the 'boost' button for hot water, it fires up then goes back to standby mode after a minute or two leaving the Boost light...

I opened it just now and no air just spewing steaming hot water

I'll get a couple of pics now and Maybe you would suggest changing it for a more usable air bleed

Got a pic of the pump with the slot as you mentioned. Good to know it exists. So it's therefore the HW circuit thats the issue. If that bleed point on the flow/return (coil) circuit isn't expelling any air worth talking about would it therefore suggest theres possibly insufficient water in that...

Why would the pump not bang and thump on the when the heating is on ? They are two different circuits but how does the primary circuit carry the airlock when the heating circuit doesnt ?

Sorry, Yes the central heating is working ... now! It starting heating then went into a standby mode so just left it and then heard gurgling from the living room radiator so I went around bleeding the radiators again and it began working again as normal

ok - just as well as that red valve would only be reachable with someone with the arms of Mr Tickle! I can feel a slot on the top side of the pump so Ill try to get a pic and confirm with you if that looks like a bleed point

Thanks Terry, Ive been bleeding the bleed point on the coil circuit but its absolute minimal air purging. How/where on the pump do I check for air - is there likely to be a bleed point? Incidentally above the pump in the pipework theres a wheeled valve that seems to ultimately like the flow and...

Hi, Hoping I can get some help here. Drained down the system today by closing the valve on the F&E Tank outlet to plumb in some new rads. When finished I opened the valve again but upon starting the boiler up and calling for HW on the primary circuit there became an increasingly violent...

Thanks Opps

Thanks Oops, Its in perfect condition just need to change the colour really so perhaps priming isnt necessary

If I could I would - they are practically welded on and won’t budge. Got around it in the end thankfully all up and running

Thank you all. Its a vented indirect system primary pumped - identical spec to whats been replaced. JohnD - its confusing but your explanation makes sense of the confusion. Ive removed the nuts off a 22mm compression joint and it screws on perfectly so I can only assume 22mm is right.

Can anyone assist please - The new cylinder has 22mm connectors for the top and coil flow and return. The current pipework is 28mm. Ideally I require a Compression Adapting Female connector that will screw into the tank on 22mm and adapt to 28mm to take the pipework. I cant seem to find this -...

A quick question - is there such a thing as a 22mm female to 28mm male compression joint ? The new hot water cylinder has 22mm for the flow and return coil but the existing pipework is 28mm ... another can of worms !

Thanks again, upon closer inspection the reason the pump is incorrect would be because the gap between the flue and the pump is insufficient so it wont let it rotate to the correct angle and rotating the opposite way wont let the door cupboard close .... definitely a poor install. I'll get it...

Many thanks for the info. Just trying to establish if aluminium needs to be treated differently ...