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I tried this over the weekend. After turning off the main stopcock in the street, I was still getting water flowing from the kitchen tap. I presume that means there is no leak between the stopcock and the house. I also tried taking 2 water readings 20 mins apart (making sure no water was used...

Presumably the leak draws water from the tumbler. But I must admit, I don't quite understand the physics. However, I'll give it a go over the weekend

Thanks. Interested to understand how this works.

I can if I don't want to know if there is a leak. Or if I don't want to know if their meter is faulty.

I haven't done that. Can I still even take an 'actual' reading if there's a smart meter installed? In any case, I have now only a few weeks to fix the leak (or establish there isn't one) before Thames insist on fixing it themselves (see my earlier post).

Thames are insisting the meter is correct. It was already a smart meter at that time

I would've known, I think, if I'd left something running for 4 days. They didn't contact me, they just doubled my bill. I contacted them and said can you check the meter. That's when they said I had a leak (as I say, 4 days long last November)

What things could cause a controlled leak? I genuinely don't think any neighbours stole our water. We live in a terrace and are on good terms with everyone! Is there anything Thames could've done to cause this?

You jest but it has raised an interesting question. Is it possible for 10K litres of water to be leaked into my property daily for 4 days without my noticing? Would there be major subsidence, or is that not enough to cause that?

If they have, they've kept it well hidden

Thank you. Yes, that makes perfect sense. I may have to get an internal stop tap installed but it'd useful anyway. There's no way a smart meter could mess up this test, is there?

I've been advised by Thames Water that I probably have a water leak somewhere on my property. They have given me 4 weeks to fix it or else they say they will have to do it themselves and they will charge me for it. It's strange, though, because the water meter shows consistent/normal readings...

So do I just open the windows more often and the mould won't reappear? Don't I need to do anything at the level of the sealant to keep the mould away?

Doesn't ventilation decrease humidity? I was wondering if water was somehow seeping under the sealant. Perhaps movement in the shower tray (since this is an ensuite bathroom to a new loft conversion) has created a small gap?

I had a walk-in shower installed just under a year ago and the sealant on the outside of the shower screen has gone mouldy. In fact, it started going mouldy some months ago, which seems a bit quick to spoil. The mould is behind/inside the sealant and is along the whole of the screen. The tiler...

These photos show the 2 areas of damage from underneath. I've had another quote now that sounds reasonable for repairing the iron gutter, but don't want to get it done if it's just going to rot again in a few years. The 2 roofers I've spoken to seem keen to replace with PVC.

I have a leaking gutter on the front of my 1890s terraced house. A roofer suggested it should be replaced with plastic guttering, which seems a shame. To do that and repair the damaged soffit - which I believe is concrete(?) and needs minor filing and repainting - they're asking around £1.5K...

Looking at the fitting, I think you're right. It's designed to be screwed on so there's isn't much surface that will be in contact with the tiles.

Thank you! I was hoping to hear some advice like this. The wall is the exterior wall at the rear of the new loft dormer, so they must be cavity walls, right?

Yes, good idea, I'll try asking the plumber. Although it was over 6 months ago that it was fitted. Unfortunately I can't look in the loft because the bathroom is in the loft conversion!