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+1 - why are you sending 240V to connections that are marked 5v or even volt free 0V? Not familiar with the ESI PCB 2 valve - is there a link to the MI? Where does the grey in pick 3 go to, is that split to the greys in pic 2? Were the browns in pic 1 to the +V terminal originally 240v?

If the underside of the sink waste is clear of it's sticker and stuff then I've never found it necessary to add anything. A little smidging of clear silicone on the lower seal wouldn't cause any issue though and give a belt 'n' braces if required.

Usually when the thermo valves start to tighten it means they are getting worn. They can be stripped down, cleaned and greased but they invariably go back to stiff again as the brass internals and seals are worn and don't run past each other as easily now. Might be time for a new one, unless...

Yes - it just allows a Y plan to be retrofitted and still keep all its components as they are. The 2 port would only need to be wired so when there was a call for rads or HW, then the 2 port would open, it wouldn't need to switch as the 3 port would already be doing that. Still easier to go to...

That's why you would embed it in the wall and then mortar it in, with just the female section protruding it should stand up to any weight, just like the wall plate would.

If it is leaking from them then they may just need tightened up or alternatively one of these or similar should sort it https://www.screwfix.com/p/viva-pp0021-stainless-steel-bolt-through-kit/291ht

Everyone would usually just have a 15mm feed with a 1/2". For a larger tap I'd just use a 22mm to 3/4" compression or end feed on the end of a 22mm pipe and then just wrap and mortar it into the wall leaving the tail.

It may have nuts and bolts that run all the way through from inside the cistern, with butterfly nuts and washer fitted below that pull the cistern down onto the pan, if so then those seals could be leaking. Look inside the cistern, can you see bolt heads and rubber washer on the bottom of the...

Flushing the system could have loosened off any crud that was in the system. It can sometimes take a few cleans to get a system back to clear again if it was bad to start with. Depending on the age and material of the pipework the system could also be made up of non barrier pipe, which then...

Do you have a wooden suspended floor? If so then the airbricks in the top wall would be there to ventilate that space. If that the case then the DPC may be above them and just below the level of the joists. Given the age of the property, it's probably on the cusp of either having or not having a...

The trouble with a seal that sticks to the tray and then the wall is if that is ever compromised, by movement or the adhesive gores then water will get in and then straight down. With the tanking kit then it's the wall and floor that gets the seal so regardless of what the tray does the...

Couldn't see metal nuts in the bag for looking, just the plastic sleeves

If the F&E tank it becoming contaminated after all that cleaning then it must be getting fresh bacteria from somewhere. A lot of normal open vent F&E's, when they become contaminated, are typically from spores from the surrounding area but that's usually when they are open to the atmosphere and...

As suggested - you may get away with repairing that. Get a similar bend and then cut out the same section from the new bend at the same place, that way you should be able to closely match the profile of the pipe at that point so the fit is as tight as possible. Roughen up both mating surfaces...

never seen a pan fixing kit that uses screw bolts before. Are they just plastic nuts? 2 usual kinds of fixing kits these days, depending on the toilet. Side fixing with plastic L brackets or top down fixings with screws and caps for old school screw down through the pan. Side fixing --------...

If it's dry internally then it can only be the elbow on the pipework is leaking rainwater. What an exceeding strange setup though TBF. Why did they make the vent that size and not make it smaller and then just run it up internally. Is it just me or do they have those sockets upside down, or is...

These days, it depends but TBH the floor should never be out anything much at all. I'll always start with a level floor, even if the existing floor has to come up to sort it out, part of the job IMHO. A lot of the flat based stone resin trays I've laid have been using a polymer adhesive. I...

Nope - if you get it as part of the tanking kit then you use a primer on the wall and floor, then paint in a coating of the tanking membrane and whilst that's wet, stick the edging tape onto it spanning the floor up to the bottom of the tile undercut, then paint over it again with the membrane...

Sounds like a plan. As suggested, just ensure the cementitious board is thick enough to load bear properly. Sand and cement can be difficult to get the consistency right - if anything like that I'd use a flexible tile adhesive - A good quality flexible tile adhesive tends to be more workable...

Looking at the pics that may actually be some type of former but most of then are made from SMC/GRP materials. Older ones used to have a High density polystyrene type core material but they would normally have needed to be very well supported below. Yeah, I'd have all that up back to the...