Search results

I did that with my snips once. I turned off the MCB, didn't realise that the labeling on the CU was incorrect. My bad.

I have done temporary fixes where the brick on edge at the top had come away. I used Stiksall (clear MS polymer). Years later, the bricks were still in place. The client only wanted it to last a few years and didn't want to pay for a brickie to come in to deal with 4 bricks. TBH, I didn't...

It is available on the US Amazon site but not the UK Amazon site. That makes me think that it might not be legal in the UK (for safety reasons), I am only guessing though. Most of the positive reviews seem to be Vine reviews. In the US it is $99, over here it would probably be about £105 (inc...

Was it a timber door liner? Admittedly, I was thinking of single timber door liners but I am glad to have been corrected. Cheers to you and @noseall

With respect, how do you know it is lime plaster? I am a decorator, not a plasterer, my lay understanding is that lime plaster will "fizz" if dropped in vinegar. To date, I have never seen a red/pink lime plaster. That said, it might look pink to me because of the lighting/resolution of the...

I have no idea about windows, but, AFAIK, door headers are seldom screwed upwards.

I was under the impression that most oscillating saws are (2 times) 2mm. I am pretty sure that my fein (FFM150) is 2 degrees and that my Festool Vecturo is 4mm. The latter is 3 times more expensive though. I could be wrong, I often am.

If you mean railway sleeper... A couple of years ago I asked for advice with regards to cutting through some old rail sleepers (these were proper sleepers not faux ones). I was considering an alligator saw or a recip. From memory, the advice from the likes of @jobandknock was to use a standard...

If the shape is irregular, you can super soak an oversized piece of lining paper, place it over the top and use a straight edge and knife to cut through the new and old paper. You should then be able to peel back the old paper and insert the new one. Hopefully, you will then only need to use...

Presumably, you can use the existing supply for the fan and insert a low voltage transformer (in line) in the attic space. It goes without saying that you will need a low voltage fan with a window fitting kit. I am not an electrician though.

I have never learned how to drive. If I need straight timber, I go to the local timber yard and select the bits I want, I then get get them to deliver those bits and not the ones that member of staff selects.

Lining paper is a very forgiving product. With the right sanders and abrasives you can even sand through the paper without it ripping. Ideally, you would use a random orbital sander connected to a dust extractor (read: vacuum cleaner) and 150-180 grit paper. When presented with a wall with a...

As per @Wayners ' post, sanding might be the better option. V hot soapy water and a green scouring pad will help, as will acetone but will possibly remove some of the paint. Just thinking aloud... is it possible that the plasterer used silicone to seal the underside of the coving. If you...

The likes of screwfix and toolstation sell corded oscillating saws for about £40 (300 watts). I guess they are fine for light work. On the balance of probability, they will be noisier and vibrate more than a pro version. Both companies offer (or did) full refunds in year one. If it fails...

I don't have any direct experience of fitting secondary glazing. It might be prudent to start another thread for advice with regards to secondary glazing. Over the years, I have worked in a few houses in central London with timber sliding sash windows and secondary glazing. I didn't notice any...

At a guess, as others have suggested, there may have been wet towels etc stuffed part of the way down the back of the rad. That would have prevented the convection currents rising up past the back of the rad. Now that you have removed the rad, I would not expect the problem to come back...

OB1 is UV resistant. The other windows- caulk prior to painting will be fine. Again, the longevity is function of the degree of condensation.

Personally, I like the seamless sinks but it does stain (tea, etc). You can cut it with an angle grinder but the dust really hits the back of your throat. Only ever installed one corian worktop. Cannot comment on the cost differential. No material is perfect though. Granite edges can be...

Good point. Tnx.

I have only ever owned two small compressors, both with very, very small reservoirs. neither would have been sufficient for sand blasting. They were fine for 18g pin guns though.