Which fixing/screw do I need to secure door frame to lintel?

[nuzuki]

Hi all,
Looking for advice for fixing top of front door frame to metal IG box lintel. Above door frame is batten to plug the gap and above lintel is 3 courses of brick and a tiled apex roof.
Please see picture below.
Thanks

 

[blup]

If the batten is acting as a packer you probably need to fix through into the steel with pilot hole and self tapping, or use the trek screws that claim not to need piloting.

 

[noseall]

Hi all,
Looking for advice for fixing top of front door frame to metal IG box lintel. Above door frame is batten to plug the gap and above lintel is 3 courses of brick and a tiled apex roof.
Please see picture below.
Thanks View attachment 411961

Pilot (metal) drill and baypole screw or 7mm pilot hole then drill plug and screw with a brown plug and 100mm screw - depending on the brick.

I've seen fitters punch through with a 6.5mm masonry bit and don't bother with piloting the steel. It's risky with the frames though as you need to hold the drill steady to stop it making the hole through the plastic baggy.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Are windows normally screwed into a lintel?

From what I've seen the standard is to fix only at the edges, just squirty foam at top and bottom.

I don't know whether this is considered sufficient. But I'd be worried about damaging the lintel if fixing up into it. Possibly OK with steel rather than concrete though. Also possibly dislodging the top course below if drilling down.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

You could drill/screw into that beast to your hearts content and never compromise it

 

[foxhole]

I used 100mm tek screws to secure patio door frame to steel . No pilot hole required.

 

[opps]

Are windows normally screwed into a lintel?

From what I've seen the standard is to fix only at the edges, just squirty foam at top and bottom.

I don't know whether this is considered sufficient. But I'd be worried about damaging the lintel if fixing up into it. Possibly OK with steel rather than concrete though. Also possibly dislodging the top course below if drilling down.

I have no idea about windows, but, AFAIK, door headers are seldom screwed upwards.

 

[foxhole]

I have no idea about windows, but, AFAIK, door headers are seldom screwed upwards.

Without a screw my entire door frame flexed about 10mm preventing doors closing .

 

[noseall]

Are windows normally screwed into a lintel?

Large span doors and windows, yes.

 

[nuzuki]

Thanks for your replies. I have a few 70mm screws similar to the baypole or tek screws. I've been told I want it to go through lintel and into the mortar but to avoid the brick if possible. I'll recess the head and fit the door jam over it

 

[nuzuki]

Forgot to add....the door frame is right up against the window so I need to drill upwards for extra strength. How many fixings do you think I should do? I was think 2 in doorframe and 1 in window frame

 

[noseall]

door headers are seldom screwed upwards.

French type doors are ALWAYS screwed upwards, if the fitters are any good. As are bi-folds etc.

 

[noseall]

Forgot to add....the door frame is right up against the window so I need to drill upwards for extra strength. How many fixings do you think I should do? I was think 2 in doorframe and 1 in window frame

One is mandatory, two is belt and braces.

 

[opps]

Without a screw my entire door frame flexed about 10mm preventing doors closing .

Was it a timber door liner?

Admittedly, I was thinking of single timber door liners but I am glad to have been corrected.

Cheers to you and @noseall

 

[^woody^]

Generally, you should not be fixing into the underside of an external steel lintel as that creates a risk of water penetration and it breaks the lintel coating creating a corrosion risk.