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Thanks.

Can anybody recommend a filler for chases and filling of old socket recesses up to 70mm? Other than the ready-to-use fillers, which work OK but are hugely expensive, I haven't been able to find anything. I was recommended Easifill 60 but on receiving it and and reading the package I see it's...

The risk from the solar radiation whilst doing the work is vastly greater than the risk from the asbestos. As for the ladder...

Which is why I twice recommended the OP get professional assessments from people who routinely do such work, as opposed to saying it's 'very basic' stuff that 'any roofer' can do, and the rest of the *******s you've posted.

For your own sake, pretend you never read anything that poster wrote. Get multiple assessments and estimates from firms with a proven history of working on such buildings, because if you don't, that roof has the potential to financially turn out your lights. Good luck.

Isn't the stepped valley between the extension and the house lead? It's basically a roof in itself.

Those tiles look porous from the salt deposits. So 13,000+ new tiles, 2 substantial turrets needing a specialist heritage roofer, 8 valleys, 4 ridges, 2 enormous crumbling chimneys, a flat lead roof, complex scaffolding, 1500m2 of felt, several kms of batten, 8 waste skips, plus anything else...

I'd be budgeting six figures for that. It has just about every complexity you could imagine for a tiled roof.

The first thing I'd do is have a professional assessment. Because if, like I would estimate, it's nearing the end of its life in its entirety, you're looking at one gargantuan bill. Even if it's 'only' a case of replacing battens, how much do you think that will cost? It's essentially a re-roof.

Great thread, looking forward to another puzzler along the lines of, "I **** in my pants and I can't work out why they smell."

If it looks like this, there might be a problem...

I had a repair done on the ridge tiles, valleys and chimney of a similarly decrepit roof. The chimney repair failed immediately so they came back and removed the chimney completely. Then the valleys failed, ironically because the tiles are in such a state that previously the water that they...

Get a report from them and sue the landlord for damages and costs.

I've just been up there for several hours using a multitool with mortar blade attachment. Easy on stubborn mortar and as for the garbage that last roofer used, it goes through it like butter.

That bit with the yellow arrow? I thought it looks like the seal peeling back. You can see it doing the same thing further up at the inner edge, although that bit likely wouldn't cause a leak.

This one. You can see the standing water on the window sill that can get blown in there.

Check your seal around that window. It looks manky and I can see a hole in it. Could be water is filtering through your walls, hence the delay in it appearing.

I think building control is for removing the entire chimney stack and breast, but not for the bit above the roofline. Why do you want to cap the remaining part in the loft?

I'd have another look at that fake window. I had a similar issue in the old house and discovered that it was a 0.5mm crack in the sealant around the window letting in over 1 litre of water per hour in heavy rain when the wind was blowing in a certain direction. Obviously you don't have an actual...

Looks like they threw those slates up from ground level, like frisbees.