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DPC goes under the floor joists of timber floors, not at skirting level, and the joists or deck should not touch bare brick. The DPC should then step up to the surface level of any concrete floor, and the slab should be protected/separated by a DPM between it and any brickwork. You probably...

Done properly, your DPC patch will last many, many years. I can vouch for that. :sneaky: You could also glue the piece back in with a quality polymer mastic adhesive for aesthetics.

Looks like you need a stepped and horizontal cavity tray above the flashing. And weep holes. At 12 years old, you may just be in time to make a latent defect claim against the developer and/or the warranty provider (NHBC?).

Fake cavity tray to match the window?

Lol. A bodger. There are times when a surface water repellent may be appropriate, but it's never Thompsons - that's for DIY on your garden planters. If such a solution is to be done, then a silane/siloxane product is used and that costs 4x as much and lasts 20x as long as Thompdons. Where is...

You have a timber floor?

Here's how I get around that stupid law.

My spaniel could potentially produce architectural drawings, but these would be Spaniel's drawings, not Architect's drawings. It's more to do with grammar than legalities.

It's a phenomenon, so occurrence can be random. The salts may be in certain clays or sand, but may remain effectively dormant. Saturation of stored materials, and the tops of part built walls is a significant cause, so there is good practice for that. Also, voids in the wall from either...

Can't change the past, but going forward this is what needs to be done. Vacuum the debris out, heat the felt up to push it back against the wall, fit lead cover flashing. Something like this

Not really, as once salts are activated, future moisture evaporation brings them to the surface. The process is generally seasonal and random, and can take a very specific set of circumstances to occur - therfore may not occur all the time or every year. Standard advice is dry brushing only...

Not subsidence then. Lintel [or lack of] for the upper cracking, and maybe thermal [shrinkage] for the lower cracking and your plaster cracking.

Text is hard to understand. Post a sketch, preferably a sectional view. The whole point of a DPC is to stop water coming up the wall and entering the internal leaf of a cavity wall and the floor. To that end it can go anywhere as long as it acheives it's purposes. Cavity trays are used where...

Fluffy=efflorescence.

Internal cracking?

Put a lead flashing over the felt upstand. The upstand can be heated up to push it back towards the wall, then a lead flashing slotted in to the wall and draped over the upstand.

:oops: Corrected * [fancy, overerly elaborate, lacking in detail but mega-expensive]

Once the flats are ready, contact the VOA (online) to have them assessed and the correct council tax bands set. They then notify the local council who creates the individual accounts.

You would have to enact any change of use permission and do the conversion work, have the converted areas assessed for domestic rates/community charge, then the commercial areas reassessed.

Unlikely related to verge If you have several similar patches and they are in varied locations relative to the roof slope, then you may have split felt or other punctures. The best way to assess is to look at the rafters after a dry and mild even temperature period, then again after the next...