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In context, I know more people that have had a bus go into their house than a rat!

Trying to solve a problem that does not exist?

It may be OK to just seat the plug in plaster for a lightweight picture or suchlike, but perhaps not for a shelf holding up a ming vase or the 100" flatscreen. I do find that I have got into a routine of adding a bit of polyurethane glue to almost every plug nowadays.

AFAIK, any acceptance of alternatives is on a risk-assessed basis per individual property and there is no blanket acceptance of alternatives to a protected escape route

You can add it, but the inspector may require certification from the installer to prove compliance. They would not inspect it (they are not qualified) nor would they pay for a firm to certify it, but would expect you to prove compliance and then sign it off. In practice you would normally have...

Unless the walls are cavity and insulated then that was never suitable for habitation. The insulation on soil under the floor, would also make the build questionable. If it's really important to sort out then you either need a suitable person to inspect it and advice, or you need to post a lot...

I've done it loads of times - in fact I'd say it was normal. There is absolutely no need for damp prevention when you are building a garage that is inherently going to be damp by virtue of having solid walls.

:cool: It's income not outcomes that matter (y)

If you specified and paid for a dry floor, then that is what you should expect. Five years is with the limitation period for which you could claim via a civil claim, if you were minded to. For context, there is no expectation that a non-habitable garage should be damp-free (e.g. no DPC and no...

You must be the "Bi-fold with gable directly above the opening Meister". I'll be in touch when I need one of these niche designs (y) (if you are still in business and can provide calcs)

There must be a protected route direct to an external door, which in turn has a safe route to safety. This route should not pass though a room, and if above ground level must have a dedicated external staircase, not a balcony or other waiting area expecting rescue. Make some enquiries at the...

Then it would contravene the MoE requirement for a protected escape route to external. A sprinkler system (plus enhanced fire detection and warning system) is not acceptable to many local authorities.

Water from this type of dry verge goes into the eaves gutter.

The fire regulations never applied to two storey houses, and have not changed in that respect. Means of escape requirements have not changed either, and your proposal won't be altering the existing situation.

Using an external tray lintel such as an L10 or L11 with a UB internally, may be cheaper than fabrication of external leaf support, and may be better for longevity instead of the exposed painted steel from fabrication.

By whatever you are intending to fix, not by the size of the plug or hole size. Depth of hole would normally be 1.5x the length of the plug. And for all but the lightest things, the plug should sit flush with the masonry, not the plaster - use bigger plugs if need be.

The fastest way would be to make a claim of statutory nuisance against the landlord, under s79 EPA 1990. Complain to your council's environmental protection department, they will investigate and serve an abatement notice giving the landlord 21 days to remedy the situation or face prosecution...

Would a continuous dry verge and cut tiles work? Not individual, continuous.

Without calculating, it's hard to say. From experience the HD version should be sufficient, but the brick piers beneath the purlins and their locations, makes it almost point loading, not a distributed load. Also, that's a non standard bearing situation. Those lintels tend to require a certain...

Flocking builders, eh. :rolleyes: