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I have had worse in the past! You want some expanding foam, PVA and patching plaster/filler. Look up 'Painting and Decorating' on YouTube. He has done loads of videos on this topic. I think the idea with the PVA and foam is to provide some adhesion to the brick underneath. It is supposedly...

'Painting and decorating' on YouTube would say: rake out, apply PVA inside, fill with expanding foam, cut/sand back foam to a few mm below finish level, then finish with Polyfilla. I have tried it in a few big cracks, and it works well. I think the idea is that the foam takes up all the gap...

I prefer my modern ones because they have convector fins. This gives much better heat output. I have replaced all but one of my 1970s Stelrads with new Myson Premier HE.

Buy quality. I had some 1970s Stelrad in my house. I bought a modern Stelrad, but wasn't quite happy with it. I got a couple of Quinns: a short one was OK, but the 1.6m long one was very thin steel and wobbles. More recently, I bought a bunch of Myson Premier rads, and this difference is...

I would use ready-mixed repair plaster. It spreads nicely with those Euro filling knives. You only need to go down far enough for the skirting to cover the crime!

Hmm, yes, but I wanted something in between the rafters too. So 100mm there, then either insulated plasterboard or 50mm PIR and regular plasterboard.

Yeah, I can see how stapling some bubble wrap will take a couple of hours, but cutting PIR will be way longer. Let alone the price difference in the material! Thanks for the comments.

Hmm, I didn't think quickly enough on my feet to ask how many layers. I assumed one. Good idea on checking the R value (duh!). That makes it look pretty black and white, doesn't it?! I suppose I was secretly hoping for some magic reason to explain that it is OK really. A bit of a shame...

Hi all, The loft in my 30s semi has a cross-braced chipboard floor. I wanted to take to the next level by insulating the 'ceiling' so I can have clean storage and hobby/office space. I bought some 100mm sheets of PIR which I was going to friction fit between the rafters (which leaves about...

I think the ordering was what he thought was a faff. He did say positive things about the boiler, even describing how they are a different HEX design than most, so I took confidence from that. It is so hard to find people! It took me ages to get someone to paint the outside of the house, and...

Thanks, I will get in touch with the Intergas Shop. The heating guy mentioned a flue duct seal and a door seal/gasket, but he said getting Intergas parts was a faff. He has been very good with his work on my rads, and I am going to get him back for more rad replacements. It has taken me ages...

Hi all, I had an Intergas 36/30 HRE Combi Compact fitted in about 2012. For various reasons, it was only serviced once, some time in 2013 (or maybe 2014), which was a pretty quick affair. I had a chap adding and replacing radiators and he had a look at the boiler too. He spent a long time...

What 'treatment' has been applied here? What did the damp proofing company do? Why did they do anything? (i.e. what was your original problem, and what did they claim was the problem?)

Perhaps, assuming the number is minutes. The boiler manual should explain (my Intergas one does). If you have poor flow, and too much boiler on/off cycling, then by all means increase the time. 20 minutes sounds high, compared to mine.

Is it a simple combi-to-combi swap? I had an old Biasi changed for an Intergas in 2013. Cost was something like 1100 for the boiler and 800 for labour. Labour rates vary with location. Where are you?

Normally, anti-cycle would refer to a minimum time delay between the boiler firing for CH demand. Imagine the boiler shutting off because the flow temp was 85 degrees, despite the furthest radiator being cold. Poor flow could cause continual on/off cycles until that final radiator was happy...

As the last two have said, back up! Secondary reasons would be the greater scope for multiple draw-offs and a faster response for DHW demand. I grew up with a traditional system. Electric back up was useful for covering the odd boiler fault. At least you can wash! In my own houses, they...

Hmm. It was tough to choose between the Honeywell options, and now there's the Remeha on eBay for £40. Aarrgghh! I am keen on something simple, so it is probably that or the T4M. Thanks chaps.

Fair enough. I must admit that it has given me little bother. It is mainly the techie in me that fancies looking at the data. Maybe I will investigate my own RS232 link at some point in the future. I am trying to weigh up the two Honeywell devices. Not really into the phone app nonsense...

Aww... So there is no possibility of the diagnostic stuff, either? I quite liked the sound of that, as a nice addition to the stat. I shall look at the Honeywell web site. Thanks both.