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Hello again all , just an update my daughter took the car into the Renault Main Dealer today and they changed this sensor: Part: 223653148R Lights and messages are off now on the dash, I hope now they stay off - I never did find the location of this sensor in the end Andy.

This is the MAP sensor that her Mechanic replaced - to me it looks a bit dodgy with a hole 'drilled' there on the top , .. unless thats how it is supposed to look! And the part number is BOSCH 0281002961 - so just looks like its a pressure sensor only and no IAT built in Now this is where it...

Different engine on hers to that in the video - but if that is the MAP sensor (seeing where its placed) in that video her's was changed too by a mechanic

Yes I had that on one of our old Petrol Clio mk2 - it had a metal cage which fowled the wiring and caused fault

My daughter has a 2017 Clio Diesel Mk4 1.5 Dci 90hp and it has a fault that's proving a git to get rid of: on TORQUE its P0096 DTC Error I have changed the MAP (pressure sensor) and the MAF (air flow with combined IAT temperature) with new parts and cleared the DTC error code successfully and...

Our house built in circa 2008 has number 2 setup

Yep sorry the diagram not done to scale at all and that's about my level of doing a diagram (looks like it was done by a 4 year old I know :) ) You need an expansion pipe for the DHW cylinder in the airing cupboard as water expands as it gets hot, plus its a safety thing as well , as if the...

Oval thing is the copper DHW cylinder in the airing cupboard the pie from the copper cylinder is the vent pipe going to the header tank (bends over the top of header tank) the water does not mix , the CH goes into the copper cylinder (immersion tank) by coil (forgot the proper term for it)

Hi all I am just wondering which setup do plumbers/heating engineers like the best out of these 2 systems with CH header tanks in the Loft? - and is one better than the other or do they both work as good as each other , any caveats with either? *Diagrams not - no-where near - drawn to scale...

good for you , must be a man of few words then . shame you cannot bring your expertise to this thread and its question but never mind other people on here have been the most help

Oh explain more do - if you are capable :LOL:

i am going to try the suggestions first - but if I went down the road of deciding to fit a pump to improve the pressure on the cold from the storage tank I am presuming if I put the pump up in the attic for them and place it at the bottom of the header tank that I would have to go for a Negative...

thank you everyone for your help and helpful advice its been really useful and has given me more options and avenues and things to check. Thanks again.

aside from the showers, the cold tap on the bathroom basins, the bath tap , the slow filling toilet cisterns then wouldnt it help anyway putting in a pump where I was thinking of putting it?

ah really , that I could look into. from memory the carbon brushes looked OK and the motor sounded fine but yes I can check that again when I am down there next. The cold water coming out the basin taps and bath tap and very slow filling of cistern (even with a brand new float) had sort of led...

I dont live near them, so I will have to pop down one weekend and do the litre per minute test

looks like these mira low pressure showers will take a maximum of 1.0BAR so if i did get a 1.5Bar pump (off screwfix wherever) would they have any way to adjust/limit down to 1.0bar or under by means of switch/variable control knob?)

I suppose if I wanted to check liters per minute un-pumped I could just maybe take the cover off the shower , then remove one of the spade terminals off the pump motor inside the shower (and heater?) and then just let flow into bucket for a minute. To check that would I be better off leaving...

I think from memory when I had the covers off the shower they are 15mm - was thinking larger bore pipes but again a load of work needed taking out all the 15mm and putting in 22mm - there might not even be the space to , and in any case it will still have to be reduced down to 15mm at the shower...

how about this idea, and I know it is not the ideal way it should be and that the shower units should have their dedicated pipes coming from the bottom of the header tank (is this so someone in the shower wont get scalded if someone turns on the cold tap on the basin or flush the toilet?) but...