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Forgive me Johnny but my logic sort of tells me that the insert flange should be passed through from the other (outside) But I guess it doesn’t matter as the pins slide independently. Did any instructions come with the kit? Regards John

To be fair, they may be malleable cast iron......some are, most new stuff appears to be drop forged but in this case the properties are similar. John :)

Although these hubs are a drop forging and are therefore malleable, I'd avoid bashing the thing in but would rather either press the new insert in or maybe use a bolt and spacer to do it that way. Loctite before the insert is inserted! John :)

I never knew these pins were threaded 9mm.....every day is a school day! Anyhoo, if it was mine I'd go ahead with the insert repair, using Loctite as well. If the insert should be proud of the hub forging I'd grind it flat and then press on with the reassembly. Most scrapper items have been...

These caliper sliders are completely stable when they are tightened up and usually have a locking compound applied anyway so they don't come undone. Your problem comes from overtightening anyway so that makes some sense! Interested to hear how you get on. John

I think both kits will be much the same, I'd go for either although I've used Neilsen before.....locking wheel bolt extractors to be precise. Interesting that they say that Helicoils aren't recommended here and I thoroughly agree with that. Clever they may be but they can undo and that's not...

Personally I've found Helicoil good enough in soft metals but for this job I'd prefer the Neilsen I think. Presumably the stripped hole is drilled out to a tolerance to allow the splined insert to be pulled in.....this should grip the forging very well, maybe even better with some Loctite too...

Things like perished tyres and brake discs wouldn't bother me at all, but if they are auto transmission then you need to get a test drive with the car nice and hot. Check for clean oil and coolant, you could need a timing belt. Expect the paint to be poor if the car has been left outside...

I'd be inclined to give the Neilsen kit a go, presumably the spline nut threads are the same as original and the insert is pushed through from the back? It looks like a perfectly good repair although I've never done one. John

For what it's worth, I find that the square section strimming line (2.7mm) is better than standard stuff. Not so generally available, but Stihl and Husqvarna do it. John :)

We have to get used to the turbo application, emissions will be crazy without them, and fuel consumption likewise. Regular servicing is vital, using the correct oil and change it at 10k on average or yearly. John

Don't overload the spool with line, use the correct diameter (weight) of line - and a spray of silicone can help a bit. I've never heard of soaking the line, which isn't to say it won't work! John :)

It's a nay from me - theories are fine! In practice you can't pull the new belt tight enough to get over the pulleys without levers. Which vehicle are you talking about? John :)

All the best Si! John

Not desirable at all! Just remove any preserving oil that may be there.......discs with painted centres don't have that as a rule. Ensure the hub that they sit on is completely clean, and add a thin layer of ceramic grease if you can. John :)

Traditionally the Toyota has legendary reliability and is the general choice of work horse. Like most vehicles of this type, they are very strong chassis wise but rust badly......some underbody treatment will make it last for many years! John

Toyota Hilux.....can have up to 10 years warranty but have the underside treated! John

See that slot at the back of the top piece? Get a broad screwdriver in there, press down and it should unclip. John

The drum alone will be one hell of a weight.....best leave it complete if you can! John

I think you’ll need to release the other, non driven end of the drum....be prepared to cut bolts off with an angle grinder! John