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Ok Just to figure out the UFH pipes then to allow me to run the conduit

So would you run the 20mm Conduit under the celotex ( not recommended by Celotex) or run the conduit over the top of celotex within the screed.

Concrete floor being covered in 100mm celotex then wet ufh and screed. What would be best way to get power to island? Not to power any appliances only for a double socket to power laptops etc

oh just found this There are two ways to prove compliance: 1. a certificate showing that the work has been done by an installer who is registered under the FENSA Scheme 2. a certificate from the local authority saying that the installation has approval under the Building Regulations.

Had some windows and doors put into new extension, window fitter who works for builder says a fensa certificate is not needed as it is all under the building regs, is that correct? thought you had to have one?

Will 18mm far eastern hardwood ply be suitable for boarding out 1st floor on 400mm spaced joists? Don't really want any chipboard

Yes there is must be 60 courses or more, and it does appear the brickwork is same height as internal block work so more an issue with the bricklayer i guess

So can this still be achieved after tiling rather than bedding each verge tile as you go?

I,ll have to question this then as i can't see how they can point under the undercloak without making a right old mess

Is this a standard way of tiling, having tiles under battens on edge of gable?

Guess I need to refer building inspector to this then. So I am correct in part

Ok thanks for this, tech drawings just say a liner so not specific. I guess a flexible is really intended for old chimneys though.

New chimney being built to take multifuel stove. I think it needs a "proper liner" i.e a Pumice liner. Builder, hetas engineer and Building control say a flexible liner is ok despite my research saying a flexible liner can't be used in a new chimney? Builder says 1st floor joists can be built...

The thing is in My eyes some of the work is not OK, but I am no expert so rely on The Builder or inspector. I can't really say something is wrong as I only have limited knowledge on certain things.

Well this is the point really, one body sees BC sign off as being done to a standard, but given their limited time on site it really isn't.

If I spill my beer replacing it costs 4 quid, my house slightly more. If you are not going to check the plans are being followed don't insist on me having any or charging me to check they are followed. So long as Welding is OK i'm fine with it, but if not, I need the building inspector with his...

So I guess i need to point this out to him as I know he will not check it. No Idea why I pay the fees the Council charge, maybe to pay for his suit and polished black shoes

So is a Building inspector going to be happy? If he lets it go is that good enough?

So The Building Inspector will pick up on this? I will be shocked if he does as so far not spent more than about 2 mins at any inspection and comes dressed for an opera. So I guess my Question is, Is Welding as good, worse or better than bolting.

Is it acceptable to weld the steel going into a building together rather than it being bolted as per Technical drawings?