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In the photo, it looks as if there is a crack in the elbow. That needs to be repaired. Possibly, it has had water backed up in it, has frozen, and split. It shouldn't need to be sealed into the larger pipe, the larger pipe should be free draining. If not, you need to work out why. Possibly, it...

It would be interesting one day, to see just how they are terminated, within the moulding.

Where/how do you plug the kettle in?

Next, comes the free attempt at an ad!

OK. The cable then, appears to be a tough-armoured one, and assuming the metal armouring is undamaged, the same fix will work of simply repairing it with tape. If you can remove a plug from the end, to enable heat-shrink to be fitted, then even better, use that.

Is that the power cable, or the high-pressure hose? If the latter, which is what it looks like, just repair it. The plastic which is damaged, is just a sleeve - protection from abrasion. I would wrap it well with electrical tape.

I have Vaillant, with the fancy Vaillant controls. The big advantage is that they are designed to understand each other, and work well together. The controls, fine tune the boiler output, to perfectly match the demand, for heat. No over shoot, no undershoot. I find manual TRV's perfectly...

I agree with Foxhole, you are wasting your time and effort unnecessarily, on a none problem. Unless the steel is continually subjected to wet, then the surface rust, will not become worse. Every garage I have seen, which uses steel roof supports, has had some surface rusting of the steel.

When I spent a year in Italy, on a weekend, I would often hire a car, and get off to do a bit of touring. I didn't back then, know about the reputation of Rimini, I just happened on it, as a name on the map. Lit up like Las Vegas, it was horrible - I drove on through.

Phew! Good decision.

A fluid is incompressible, and cannot be 'stretched'. A gas (air) can be compressed, or 'stretched' - which means if you prevent air getting in, or make sure there is no air already in the water column, the water in the column cannot escape.

The important point, you seem to be not seeing, is that if air cannot get in, the water will not come out. As has been explained to you, a small amount of water will come out, but only until a vacuum has been formed, above the column of water in the pipework.

Bricks, suggests it could possibly be structural, did you investigate before demolishing?

How about, something like those U shaped brackets, made from flat strips? The same idea, as used to hang clothing, over the top of a door, without screws into the door.

Get it in writing, exactly what they include as part of the work. They could be not including the extras.

The boiler alone, can be £1200 to £1500 retail.

I tried a variety of push, self-drive mowers, and hover mowers, but it was just too much for both me and the mowers, they and I me, never lasted long, it was such a task. It didn't even save much in fuel. The tractor does it all in 30 minutes, and with no real effort. .

He wasn't suggesting the use of emulsion paint!

Seems too cheap to me, too. Are they aware it's not a simple box swap job, but a move the boiler, and convert? Get them to provide a detailed specification of what they intend to do for that price, including the boiler, make model.

Aren't these things absolutely obvious, so why are you asking, the answer to such obvious questions?