Search results

I did about 20 boards in my house with soudal gun grade. Following the instructions to the letter (wait exactly 3 minutes after applying foam etc). The foam continued to expand by a small amount for about 10 minutes, for some reason it was more around the mid height of the board - not much, but...

I'm doing the stair strings which are pretty battered. Presumably 2 pack stuff is the way to go? Can anyone recommend? Something from Screwfix etc that easy to use. Thanks. PS - don't know why they're being turned round - they're the right way up in my gallery.

Could be, although I would base it on the fact that it's lasted 33 years so what's another 267? My 150 year old house was full of just timber door frames with 5 or 6 courses of brickwork on top. Bit of wood with some bricks on top was just normal for a small opening till the industry invented...

Just press the impact driver a bit harder....into the heads of the idiots who can't agree on a common standard for a basic screw head.

You're massively overthinking and over engineering this.

. I reckon about 300 years.

Looks like more than a few mm on the first pic. If it was me I'd probably throw a few bags of cheap self levelling compound at it for my own peace of mind.

That's unfortunate, looks like they could have been "swung" across. Gas will have to be moved outside - the plastic melts in a fire and then you have an internal flamethrower.

What have you got? Thinner bricks, cut down blocks etc will do.

Probably done so they could tile the kitchen floor above. Few new joists will sort it out. If you have the headroom you could fit them under the existing to save disturbing all that trimmed stuff. Would be interesting to know how they shuttered it, maybe chucked sand in and then dropped the...

I was surprised they came out, given the age, but to agree to, and, confirm they have the parts and then tell you that rubbish is unacceptable. It's not BER if it needs 2 readily available parts so I'd insist on the call out fee back - submit a complaint and ask them to review the recording of...

If it's PD just do it on a building notice. There's plenty on here who've built far more complicated extensions with little previous knowledge or experience. Familiarise yourself with the building regs and put your proposals on here - you'll undoubtedly receive more than enough detailed...

Done by a bloke called Tony on the back of an old council tax bill. Hasn't fallen down yet.

Thanks. I'm not a carpenter and I always butt joint skirts with a simple profile so I'm not worried about that. I'm going to fit the plinth after or i'll never get off if I trap it behind the skirting The doors won't open if the full height skirting is used. I did consider just having nothing...

.....or will it look ok when painted? No room for anything at the sides of the doors. I did initially try keeping the chamfered section but thought it looked slightly worse at the lower height.

My steels all slotted inside each other, like a very neat jigsaw, no plates or bolts.

You can get refurbished PCBs on eBay for around £50 (it's a 25E). You can also buy refurbished fans for £50 but they're rubbish (one of the companies kept fitting the motor in in the wrong orientation - it's different to other ideal fans) and the other must have used crap bearings as it failed...

Seen it on car sos. I presume it needs some interpretation - might say it's full of crankshaft metal, but you might have one of those bulletproof engines from the cavalier that will still run another 100k miles with no maintenance - makes you wonder where it all went wrong.

I had a similar 2 zone system and was advised to ditch the zones. I went for Wiser and although they do a HW plus two htg zone set up I fitted smart TRVs in the four bedrooms for £120 - so I was able to remove a zone valve from the system and gain individual room control upstairs. Downstairs is...

I'd probably just knock the block off and sit it on the wall.