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this is the problem i have with the drawers if using sweep (assuming the pipes would more angled towards main waste connection). it might clash with the top lip of the bottom drawer and less room for storage as a result. the top drawer has a big cut out so should be ok unless it catched the...

ultimately, i could do if its absolute must but trying to avoid it as the walls just been tiled and holes screwed for brackets for the vanity

not much point changing it to 40mm if the pipe in the wall is 32mm? i'll see what the angles are like for the sweep elbows - maybe 92degree but can try 135 degree. only reason i've done the initial pipe section relatively level is to avoid the drawers in the vanity unit

hi, just wondered if having 2x 90 elbows after the p trap like in the drawing is ok? (red section) trying not having to dig the external wall to raise the existing waste connection pipe in the wall.

thanks all. I'm building the box first. I was going to replicate what im doing on the other two sides - putting in a support batten on the boxing. silicone when pushing the bath in place. then the tiles on the box would be above the bath like the other walls. I was going to try and follow the...

I did want to make the top removable so can be used for extra storage but didnt want to risk any seals/waterproofing. when you say work out how to tile around the line up, do you mean the box section above the bath? I was going to replicate what ive done on the other sides of the bath - put...

Hi all, I'm thinking about making a box frame (tiled finish) at the end of the bath tub. Just wondering if its best to: A) tile the whole wall first, then make the box and tile up to the wall. (so tiles would be running behind/inside the box) or B) do the box first and then the wall tiles up...

I rang technical support and they say that this does not have the S1 flex certificate. But he also advises that I do not need flex on a bathroom floor if laying it onto hardiebacker. Any opinions on this please?

hi all, bought this as it was the only standard set adhesive in the shop at the time. Only just realising this is not an S1/S2. Is this ok to use for bathroom wall/floor? be using porcelain tiles on hardiebacker boards...

i might just get that new BTW flexi with the jubilee clip. i see there are mixed views on jubilee clips versus pushfit. but I thought with the jubilee, its a MACFIT range which means I can use the McAlpine Con 1 extension if I need hat extra length. Would like any advice or thoughts on this...

sorry for the confusion! just realised I've got two accounts on this email - not sure how that happened. think i had an old account and somehow when i logged in again (same email), its logged me in as the old one! :LOL:

sorry guys, just spotted this one by McAlpine. Designed for back-to-wall and extended length is that much longer which could possibly just work. it is a jubilee clip though - any thoughts on that please...

Thanks for the detailed and interesting response! Im sure it'll be fine being indoors and under a first floor bathroom floor and enclosed within a back-to-wall toilet but feel like getting the normal soil pipes just from hearing that! haha Just got to make a decision now I guess. Get a DC-1...

but the DC-1 would provide the female end facing up? then the male end of 45 degree go into that and the ring seal end of that would slot into the other bend; and the finally the flexi pan connector?

do the 45 degree bends need solvent? thought they were just ring sealed pushfits? if not, putting in solvent is fine but have always read that solvent welds are somewhat risky especially areas where it'll be difficult to inspect. I have just found a McAlpine flexi which is super long and would...

thanks. yes meant i would get a DC1 connector and then two 45 (or 135degree bends). tried to sketch this one out - hopefully makes sense. also, i wondered if I could use underground soil pipe for the bends as its almost half the price of the soil pipe...

oops typo. Thank you. I will give this a go this weekend.

sorry to be dumb but just to confirm, I simply remove the extra earth wire and connect as per previous (old L1>new L2 and old C>new L1). connect the random loose black wire to an empty connector block. as per this new dioagram?

Sorry, yes, there was previously a different ceiling light which has never worked since we recently moved in. I fitted a new one to see of the light was the problem but also we didn't actually like it.

Im happy to do a trial and error but silly question, as long as switch the power off at the mains everytime I do the works, will testing different wires in different terminals do any further damage?