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Cheers guys good advice here will get it protected with something so its not directly taking weight!

Hi, Just a quick one, I have ran in a 50mm waste pipe and due to the route (I had literally no other options) it has come out of the building very low down and will run into an existing drain. I had to smash the old concrete step out you can see where it was, the garden is being done anyway but...

I certainly hope there'll be no WC solids in the bath :ROFLMAO:

Right I did actually suspect that may be the case. So would that be tee'd in just after the trap basically? And could also use a waterless trap? One thought i initially had was a bath rated macerator would work and should even comply with regs but (I may get shot down for this) i would honestly...

Hi all, We're fitting a bath in the bedroom at the front of a house on the ground floor, unfortunately the closest drain point is about 10 metres away at the back of the house, its a suspended timber joist floor so there is a bit of a void under it but only around 250-300mm from the underside...

Hi all, With so many single ovens now asking for 13A or 16A fusing, they can be a real pain to connect to an existing circuit in a satisfactory manner, plugging into a 13A socket often leads to overheating, same issue with using a 13A fcu. And for the ones that ask for 16A fusing compliance is...

That is exactly what I've been wondering! Whatever they've used it wasn't straight/level or the more concerning alternative is the concrete has crumbled that much, there was a fair bit of crumbled bits on the ceiling that fell onto me when I pulled it down but not enough to account for that much...

Yes agreed, would not have been fun if we'd done a full renovation only to have the ceiling/floor cave in!

We are the leaseholders and therefore the landlords.... yes need to check whether floor/ceiling repairs would be a split cost or not but I know for a fact we own the lease for both the downstairs and upstairs flats. Yes will check with our solicitors but in fairness I'm not really sure how a...

I believe it was originally built as one house but converted to two flats very early on - the dividing stud wall between our the downstairs flat and the entrance & staircase for the upstairs flat is lath and plaster so that gives some idea of how long ago it would have been converted.

Hiya, we are the leaseholders its only up and down flats not a block or anything. But yes point taken need to speak to the landlord of the flat above, wasn't planning on doing the job imminently just got acrows in place when we seen the state of the joists going into the wall! Its a lead main...

Definitely agree we've actually got acrows up already, and are going to replace the joists that are knackered.

Hi all, Bought a circa 1920s downstairs flat recently as a renovation project, we've ended up having to take all the ceilings down as they were crumbling lath and plaster as well as going back to brick on most of the walls. Most of the construction is more or less as expected for that era but...

Doesn't matter one bit if liquid detergent spills on clothes before the wash starts, I pour the right dose directly on top of the clothes and then start the wash or set a delay timer as needed, never had an issue with clothes staining from detergent or anything like that. Don't like using the...

I've found new toilets are a bit hit and miss, when I say new I mean anything with a 6l and under flush. My ~20 year old close coupled villeroy and boch one always needs 2 flushes, my brand new rimless vitra toilet with a concealed geberit cistern is almost always spot on. I've definitely seen...

https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/90mm-high-flow-chrome-shower-waste-with-extendable-flexible-waste-pipe Could be this one. But they all look pretty similar really, could you not keep the internals and just use the chrome cap off a cheap trap to cover everything nicely, it is just decorative...

Yes sounds like swapping the power supply for a new one is the answer, doesn't have to be the same brand any constant voltage driver rated at 12v 30w will do. May be worth checking how much power the led strip is pulling if you know its rating as the driver should be oversized by at least 20%...

I am not sure what the model numbers signify but what I do know is czjutai power supplies with an M in a circle do remember their last setting. A T in a circle signifies its got an inbuilt timer usually for 6/8hours on and 16/18 hours off but it can be disabled. For the czjutai brand at least...

You need a 32v power supply not 36v, having said that I can't think why using an overrated power supply would knacker it, if anything it would knacker the leds. There is no harm in getting one rated for a higher wattage though so a 32v 15w rated one might be the best bet if you've had 3 12w ones...

That is a pretty poor failure rate, I've got probably close to 100 of the things and over the last couple of years can only recall maybe 4 failures - the light sets usually fail/rust before the power supply fails. I have quite a few different brands but have noticed the ones supplied with more...