Installing new circuits for oven and hob

[Jon c]

Hi all,

With so many single ovens now asking for 13A or 16A fusing, they can be a real pain to connect to an existing circuit in a satisfactory manner, plugging into a 13A socket often leads to overheating, same issue with using a 13A fcu. And for the ones that ask for 16A fusing compliance is near impossible if you've only got an existing 32A 6mm circuit to work with which has to run an electric hob and oven so you obviously cannot swap the MCB to a 16A one.

So if you've got the opportunity to run new circuits when rewiring for a new kitchen what do people do? Historically we've just ran a 6mm radial for both which demand wise is okay but makes it a pain when ovens are asking for fusing down. Given the opportunity does it sound sensible to run in a 6mm for an electric hob and then maybe a 2.5mm radial for a single electric oven which can have a 16A mcb making complying with manufacturers instructions far easier?

Your thoughts would be appreciated, cheers!

 

[endecotp]

the ones that ask for 16A fusing compliance is near impossible if you've only got an existing 32A 6mm circuit to work with which has to run an electric hob and oven so you obviously cannot swap the MCB to a 16A one.

The experts will be along soon, but I believe it is fine (and normal) to connect a 16A oven and a hob to a 32A circuit.

 

[pete01]

The experts will be along soon, but I believe it is fine (and normal) to connect a 16A oven and a hob to a 32A circuit.

So do I

 

[ericmark]

I have found nothing to say what the maximum supply is to many ovens, hobs, and cookers. Clearly can't connect 100 amps, but nothing seems to give us a limit. So convention seems to be 32 amps, and I would not worry connecting any hob or oven to a 32 amp supply. But at 45 amps, I would be uneasy, as should a wire become loose, one can be sure it would trip a 45 amp supply.

A 32 amp fuse

can be fitted, same with a 16 amp, but they are same size as using a MCB, so I would only use a fuse when I need semi-connector fuses, may as well fit MCBs or RCBOs in any mini consumer unit used, it would be great if we could buy 16 amp FCU, but these don't seem to be made.

What you need to realise, is commercial and domestic are not the same. Commercial I would be fitting chunky units, which simply do look right in a domestic kitchen, and if looking at cooking for a family of 4, it does not matter if the induction hob and fan oven are integral units, or stand-alone units, you will use the same amount of power.

An if we were OK with 4 x 3 kW resistive hobs, plug an oven with a 32 amp supply, then an induction hob will use less overall power even if rated heat area is 3.8 kW, that heat has to get into the pan, and unless only boiling water, over around 1.5 kW with an induction hob will simply burn the food, most of the time using less than 1 kW so a duel cooker outlet 95% of the time with an oven and hob on a 32 amp supply is fine.

My cooker everything on full is something like 60 amps, but I have never tripped a 32 amp overload.

A cooker often the oven will allow closed door grilling etc, when it uses both the fan and the grill at the same time, but stand alone oven has to work with a max of 16 amps, so it often time shares to have same feature, so it does now work as well.

But we have found so many of the features, we no longer use, we had a 12 way selector switch to set how the oven is used, back, sides, and top heat, like the old solid fuel cookers with dampers, but the air frier, microwave, etc, means the oven and hob are used less and less.