Yet another hob + oven question

[Manty]

I've just received a single oven rated at 2.5kw. According to the manual, it needs to be wired to the CCU using 2.5mm cable, and protected by a 20a fuse (that's under the section for UK, for Europe it states 16a). The appliance has no flex pre-wired.

Before I got it, I was planning on placing an FCU-fed socket behind the oven and using heat resistant flex + plug for the oven.

The hob I'm looking at is 5.9kw, I was planning on putting that on the existing CCU nearby which is currently a 6mm radial with a 40a MCB on it (the old 10kw double-oven + hob is on there at the moment), and also replace the MCB with a 32.

Are we better off getting the oven wired to the hob with 2.5 and keep the 40a MCB, or connect the oven to the ring via a socket or flex outlet fed by 13a FCU and downrate the MCB to 32a for the hob itself?

Seems easier and more logical to go with the oven chained to the hob route... ?

 

[JohnD]

The oven uses about 11Amps so would be quite happy on a 13A plug, if you happen to have a convenient outlet and capacity on your kitchen socket circuit. Some would use an FCU and a flex outlet. Some (like me) would use a 20A DP switch above the counter feeding an unswitched socket below.

The hob uses about 27A so I would be happier with it on a 32A MCB via a cooker switch. No need to have a high-rated MCB even if the cable and switch are suitable. So you can get closer fault protection to the appliance.

BTW 40A is too much for 6mm cable.

 

[Manty]

<snip>Some would use an FCU and a flex outlet. Some (like me) would use a 20A DP switch above the counter feeding an unswitched socket below.

Wouldn't that make a blown fuse in the cooker's plug a real pain to sort out? ... having said that, it shouldn't happen unless something was faulty, yes?

BTW 40A is too much for 6mm cable.

Surprised at that, it was an electrician that installed the cooker circuit several years ago. Needless to say, I'll be downrating that MCB as soon as I get hold of the hob.

I think because I never use the top oven or grill at the same time as the fan oven, it may have been within tolerance of the 40a.

Thanks, John.

 

[RF Lighting]

Wouldn't that make a blown fuse in the cooker's plug a real pain to sort out? ... having said that, it shouldn't happen unless something was faulty, yes?

Yes the fuse will only blow if there is a fault with the oven, and if this is the case the oven would have to be removed from its cupboard anyway.

 

[Manty]

Actually, could I have your quick opinion on something else please?

I have an opportunity to mount the CC switch for the hob within an adjacent base cabinet to the oven housing... frowned upon by all or does it vary depending on the local inspectors?

Assuming its bad, is there a minimum distance to the edge of the hob that I can mount it on the wall (there is limited wall space where the appliance is located)?

 

[JohnD]

...Wouldn't that make a blown fuse in the cooker's plug a real pain to sort out? ... having said that, it shouldn't happen unless something was faulty, yes?....

Yes, appliance fuses blow approximately never, on average.

If your oven is ever faulty enough to blow the fuse, it will need servicing (or chucking in the skip) so probably have to come out anyway.

But if the socket is accessible, that will very occasionally be useful.

It is however essential that the isolating switches for the hob and for the oven are both visible above the counter, and immediately accessible in case of emergency.

Less than 2m (though that seems a long way to me) and at least 300mm sideways away so that you don't have to lean over the flames of a chip pan or the smoke of an oven to turn it off.

 

[Manty]

Thanks RF, thanks John, have earmarked a double socket to be converted into a dual box so that one side can be used for extractor supply/isolation, and the other for the oven itself.

 

[RF Lighting]

Actually, could I have your quick opinion on something else please?

I have an opportunity to mount the CC switch for the hob within an adjacent base cabinet to the oven housing... frowned upon by all or does it vary depending on the local inspectors?

Yes, frowned upon by all. (except maybe kitchen fitters )
And in contravention of BS7671

Assuming its bad, is there a minimum distance to the edge of the hob that I can mount it on the wall (there is limited wall space where the appliance is located)?

AFAIK there is no specified minimum distance, just far enough away to prevent it being damaged by heat etc. I would have thought 300mm would be fine.

There is however a maximum distance of 2 meters allowed from the cooker to the isolator.

<edit> one - nil to JonhD

 

[Manty]

Yes, frowned upon by all. (except maybe kitchen fitters )
And in contravention of BS7671

Heh, cheers, this will all be checked by a qualified electrician of course!

AFAIK there is no specified minimum distance, just far enough away to prevent it being damaged by heat etc. I would have thought 300mm would be fine.

2 metres would probably put it above the sink in my case, I'll get it as far into the corner as I can... this is all because there's a wall obstruction - a supporting pillar - which I'm trying to avoid knocking chunks out of to sink the back box for the switch.

 

[JohnD]

<edit> one - nil to JonhD

Tee hee! never mind, some of us have nothing better to do

 

[Manty]

<edit> one - nil to JonhD

Is this a contest to answer first or answer the most accurately?

Edit: and I will reserve judgement on the latter...

 

[JohnD]

the contest is to be the first to issue a completely wrong and misleading answer that tricks the original poster into believing it