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You should use a connector block to terminate and secure the unused live wire.

It looks like the old floodlight could either be operated manually by a switch or automatically by the sensor. Therefore you have a permanent live, a switched live, a neutral, and an earth in the 3core+earth cable. The new floodlight only has one live connection, so it will only switch on...

It's a good idea to have a double pole switch inside to isolate power to the socket in case it fills up with water or something which would trip the RCD, so you can switch it off until its repaired and reset your RCD. In an ideal world it would be nice to run a circuit to the socket from an RCBO...

Consider the two types of fault an RCD trips for. A 30mA RCD will actually usually trip at around 23mA but the socket RCD and house RCD will trip at slightly different values, so the one with a lower value would trip first if you have a small leakage fault (such as water between live/neutral...

No, there is no point at all having an RCD socket if the circuit already has RCD protection. It is just one more thing to go wrong and annoying to have to reset each time before use. I have the BG one and it's good, yes the clips are tight but they need to be to keep it waterproof. Edit: It is...

You are right in thinking there is a possibility of too much load if you connect the tap to either of those FCUs, especially the plinth heater one. If the FCUs are on a ring final circuit (or any other appropriate circuit) you could add another FCU by either spurring off the feed/supply side...

The electricians plan certainly sounds sensible. Although he refers to taking a supply from the main CU it would be better to supply the shed from a switch fuse (also non RCD) as this would provide discrimination from the protective devices presumably to be installed in the shed.

Also if that one is appropriate, should I use any of the fancy speed settings or just stick to the constant speed settings?

I see the bit about 6m head. Are you saying not to get a grundfos one or just not the 50 model? I saw this one on screwfix, only looking at screwfix in particular as I can possibly get it done tomorrow and report back...

Fair enough I will do that, should I go for an exactly equivalent replacement? Also if that doesn't help whats the next thing to look at?

Actually I should mention when I set it to the 2nd or 1st speed settings the motor sometimes makes a buzzing sound as if it is trying to start up but can't, this only happens if it has stopped completely before trying to start, and I will get going eventually. Fastest speed setting does not do...

There was nothing large at least, just little black bits as would probably be expected. Nothing large came out of the ports. Base was clear although a little rusty. It was able to spin fairly freely, and no obvious damage to any parts, but as has been said who knows if it is actually working at...

Just another though, could the pump be undersized? It's a grundfos UPS 15-60 130. Bearing in mind there are 13 rads and a megaflo do you think it's probably correctly sized?

Sorry I forgot to post about that, it didn't look too badly gunged up inside and I tried to give it a clean, hasn't seemed to have any effect though. I should have taken some photos, sorry I didn't think to at the time. I have also now orientated it horizontally, which also has not changed...

Yes it was a new build, they seem reasonably sized based on the room size and insulation and amount of windows, but would only be effective if they actually got up to temp. The kitchen one for instance is a double panel 600x1400mm as the room (approx 5x5m) has a number of floor to ceiling...

Yes the silver screw cap on the pump is pointing upwards, I'll turn it horizontal but it's been this way for 12 years probably. Is there any way to test whether it is working correctly as a new one is rather expensive and I'd rather not go replacing random parts if it's unnecessary? With regards...

Not gonna disagree with that, it was done about 12 years ago when the house was built (although I haven't lived here that long) but obviously nothing can really be done about it without major work.

Makes sense...could powerflushing help? Would love to have underfloor heating downstairs but obviously it's not practical as the floors are already laid and we're not looking to replace them. As you say the microbore lengths do vary massively. I think the longest length is to the largest rad in...

That's thanks to my house being a new build:rolleyes:. I don't know why they decided to shove it all in such a small area, they've basically put the hot water cylinder on top of a shelf and the pipework shown is underneath this. I'll check the torque as you describe.

I have opened the upstairs trvs up to about one full turn and kept the temp set at 70, this makes no difference and the boiler still only runs for a minute or so. With the lockshields open about 2 turns, it's still no better. With the trvs all open as well it works much better, will run for 5+...