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@mrgifted - not that gifted unfortunately - please read the rules about replying to old posts and do note that the OP hasn't been for a year and a half, so unlikely to reply. Oh and BTW it isn't hematite - it's magnetite - hence why it shows as a dark brown to black on a white test as against a...

Yup - or 68mm downpipe - and make it roddable.

Oh dear - tell them to stop and that you want it done properly. The old cast needs to be removed and a new run. Could also tidy up the bath/shower/basin waste too

The rollers at the bottom should be sprung, that allows them to stay square in the channel regardless of how the top hinges are adjusted, within reason of course.

Cut it - Angle grinder with a stone/tile cutting diamond blade. Start at the soil pipe connection, at the top of the S band - cut a line around that, tape it up with duct tape to stop bits dropping in and possibly blocking the drain and then tap with a hammer on the pan side to crack it. Then...

Not so much on a potable water cylinder - given they tend to be nice and clean. Older ones may be a bit twitchy as the rubber seals can harden over time stuck on the seat. Most expansion PRV's are on the cold inlet so aren't subject to much in the way of heat that can also cause problems - the...

It's for expansion - Instead of an external/remote EV vessel - the internal plastic baffle traps air @ the top of the cylinder and that air then compresses & absorbs the HW expansion The plastic disk at the top of the cylinder is the baffle

Certainly looks the same as the megaflops's, when the baffle starts to break down, they tend to look blue'ish but I guess that's just what colour the baffle may be

It would work as a return just wouldn't think the rad would heat up very evenly, if it was acting as the return, the columns beyond the return outflow probably wouldn't get much heat. I would certainly think it would be designed to be on the flow, kinda pointless otherwise IMO. Bain of our...

Typical - don't know why IKEA find it difficult to follow a standard like a simple service void at the back of the unit. Create your own - back panel off and bring it forward 50mm and use block connectors or small batons. Then bring the services in from the back.

No need to cut. the nut can be unscrewed and the fitting pulled apart. The grab ring is then twisted and snapped off. Used to be able to get packs of replacement grab ring replacements, they now do a component replacement kit for a pound odds too I think Just replace it with a normal...

Depends on where it's leaking, tends to be seals, moot really though given it's being replaced.

If CH pipes run through an are where it won't warm the living space, then any type lagging will always be of benefit to efficiency, reduce wasted heat and speed up warm up times at the rads. Any pipes that are boxed in will just heat ups the internals of that boxing and nothing else, that's just...

The key to any radiator being efficient in heating a given space IMO is the mechanism of how it actually warms the volume of air in that space. When it comes to larger volume spaces and wet central heating, convection is the most efficient way of heating that space, UFH not withstanding. A...

It would make sense that the hot would be the shortest but it wouldn't be the first time I've seen a system retrofit to an out building where the old system was centrally in the house and the HW may now be taking a convoluted path to the get to the outlets. If it's running an unvented I would...

With the new hi temp heat pumps using the newer refrig fluids then they can run much hotter whilst maintaining their COP 3-4 efficiencies. It means that older less insulated properties can now be retrofitted, existing rads can be retained as system temps can be run hotter maintaining the...

You wouldn't normally use a pump to 'boost' the hot water from an unvented no and yes it can cause issues as the pump could be trying to draw more water than the combination valve's PRV, feeding the cylinder, is pre-set to supply. If the pressure/flow from all the hot water outlets is the same -...

Absolutely, no issue using tile adhesive, just that there are now alternatives. - just check the levels of the backer board before the tray is laid to ensure, if needed, the notch is large enough to accommodate any adjustment needed. Obviously if everything is dead level then it won't be as...

Nope - screws should happily hold the Hardie. Is it onto a sub floor? As long as that's in good condition it should be fine even without any adhesive, just ensure it is screwed securely @ 200mm spacing. Don't forget to seal it all up before the tray goes down. As long as the adhesive is...

Maybe it's just me but I wouldn't want condensate dripping out of a roof vent onto the bathroom floor TBTH, if that's the idea/outcome