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3(.2?) in the ally, 6 in the wall. Pretty standard,

And remember the 6P rule.

Totally agree except that I wouldn't want a domestic chippy trying to do major formwork: there are different skills/mindset required.

An ordinary masonry drill will handle ceramic tiles. NO HAMMER though. 3.2 seems awful small though: surely you're going to use wall plus so at least 5mm for yellow plugs

No decent SE will query that brace.

I've used these tiles quite a bit: they are a bit marmite but I like them. I'd put a soldier course under that window.

You can often save a lot of work by slightly tweaking dimensions to suit the sizes you can get. There's also a balance to be made between joist size and number of posts. More posts = shorter spans = smaller timbers

I'm not sure what proportion of your customer base would appreciate the distinction: Wood stuff = carpenter to a lot of peeps.

If it is trees then since the wretched things grow then the chances are things will get worse. 5m for a tree is potentialy very close. We look at anything within 30m when designing foundations.

I.i'll take a bet that this will raise queries should you try to sell.

With proper attention to detail the vents should have been set higher to suit the raised access: this is what telescpoic vents are for.

This might be a case for a judicious bodge. How about simply sealing the crack insitu?

Ah, my bad: not looking closely enough. I still think you have to alter the bracket as (even if there was meat there to do it which I doubt) you'd need a lathe to reduce the bar. I'd see if you can't cutthe brackdet in 4 and reassemble with spacers: I don't think you'd need to alter the bore...

Don't use a grinder. We had a guy killed on site many years ago (not my job thankfully) doing just this when the allegedly cleaned out barrel exploded. The first 300 plus were fine but it only needed one. For a one off a sharp bolster is the best too; as it automatically dresses the sharp edge...

Your suggestion has merit but will need proper design: if you have trees then the depth may well be need to be > 1m deep. PCC litels would be your best bet as steels would need to be encased in concrete.

Washers between the bearing and housing is all you need. should be simple.

Wee grey Ferguson tractor then mk 1 Cortina

A pickaxe is a quick way to punch the holes: you don't need to be subtle.

I think it looks much worse than it is due to the loss of the pointing which hasn't been raked out deep enough.

I'd look at scaffold boards if I was doing the job: plenty stromg enough and less likely to be affected by the inevitable splashes.