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That's exactly what we do have a local metal basher make them up.

As valve was changed by BG less than a month ago maybe get them back?

Your pipework won't be 25mm it's either 28mm or more likely 22mm.

From memory they are intended for solid fuel only. Maybe try contacting Harworth Heating they have made conversations even new heat exchanges for rayburn cooker range. harworthheating.co.uk

We use the INSUduct system to bring water services into buildings less digging and ducting. I'd be looking to take pipework tight under floor joists suitably insulated. Wouldn't use mdpe internal would swap to correct sized mlcp.

If your having to top up with immersion heater your probably OK just monitor temperature. We have occasionally had to increase size of heat leak when customers have started using less hot water and still ran cooker hot. Make sure to keep burner serviced we do some 3 to 4 times a year depending...

I installed a few of them back in mist's of time. We always installed them as a indirect system with a small rad or towel warmer. As your system is now it probably depends on your hot water usage if your going to have problems or not. I certainly wouldn't run cooker on high setting for...

As suggested try cleaning up a bit Looking at age of pipework that may just be a spring loaded safety valve covered in crud.

The answer is sort of depends! What model rayburn? Is it a purpose built oil one or converted solid fuel? What size is your hot water cylinder? Is it direct or indirect? Clear pictures would be useful.

Have to say while that's obviously fine on your system its certainly not a universal cure. I've seen many system with that arrangement some are very clean others some of dirtiest systems you have seen. I've seen the tee blocked with debris. Also notorious slow refilling system.

As above get rid of that aerjec and repipe to H section. They are the work of the devil try sticking a magnet on pipework near it.

Assuming you do have 240v to receiver could well be faulty. We've changed a few not got best reputation.

Yep that would do I'd be fixing to truss or rafter rather than tile lathes.

When I was involved with such things we just removed a few tiles at correct point fabricate a L shaped bracket that went under tiles. Securely screwed down bottom edge stuck up about 100mm . Tiles trimmed on underside so when replaced all laid flat. Often used the heavier multi holed galvanised...

We look after a number of oil combi's on borehole/private supply's. As above I would suspect plate to plate heat exchanger. All the one's we look after have now got water softeners on .

We prefer to fit the ideal vouge when going for pdhw We go for X plan using a normal open zone valve to shut heating flow when there is a dhw demand. With a correctly sized cylinder with high performance coil very quick dhw re heat is possible. When wired correctly with a o/s sensor the...

Ex Stanley agent here As above new sealing rope needed. Door off always replace all screws drill out tap out as needed. Clean up carefully with rotary wire brush . Rebuild.

It's whatever works for you! Not used ptfe for over 10 years would probably struggle to find any in van. Loctite 55 dont use anything else. We still do a certain amount of screwed steel gas you can't back ptfe lol.

Tectite classic just push collet back into fitting. Special tool required or you can get away with a bahco type adjustable spanner.

Welcome to our world! There must be some sort of gap behind sink for flexis from tap to pass through. There are long box spanner sets exactly for this job . As for nut size who knows if it's a m8 thread probably a 13mm spanner required. But I have 5 different double ended box spanners for...