Search results for query: cedral

...far too bright, be they real wood or composite. Greys or dark browns etc look far nicer and are much more subtle than cedar IMO. Marley Cedral looks pretty good to me, but then I like the muted colours. Think you'll have to search for a specific composite cedar cladding or the like rather...

...to vent the 110mm soil pipe through a lower pitched roof. Can anyone recommend the BEST lead flashing tile for this purpose ?? The tiles are Cedral Thrutone cement slate roof tiles 600x300mm. I don't want any old sh!te, I'm looking for a quality, long lasting product that is going to be...

Looks super mate.

...like if I had the top half weather boarded? For instance I could upload a photo of my house and add the features to it to see what it would look like. I would like to weather board to top half using Cedral weather board and to be able to change the colours to choose which I like the best.

...question if you don't mind. lead flashing to dormer cheeks, the pitch of the roof is 40 degrees with composite slate, the dormer is having cedral weatherboard, when I re tile to the dormer cheeks do I have to use soakers and flashing or can I use aluminium soakers and no flashing on the...

Here is my proplem. We are going to have the front upper half of our house weatherboarded using Marley Cedral planks but our existing upvc window sills only protrude 50mm from the wall and the weatherboard protudes 58mm. The sill will need to overhang the weatherboard, so what are my...

...Websites recommend 100% acrylic paint for this but questions if anyone knows: - Do I need to prime the boards first and if so with what? - Any recommendations for exterior and suitable acrylic paints, ideally that anyones used on something like Hardi Plank/Cedral boards? Thanks in advance

The Cedral is dusty and a bugger to cut, but a quality product all the same.... Cedral5 by noseall posted 3 Dec 2017 at 7:10 AMCedral10 by noseall posted 3 Dec 2017 at 7:10 AMCedral6 by noseall posted 3 Dec 2017 at 7:10 AM

Why????????? it looks fine to me

...shown is a sandwich panel but I couldn't find a piccy of this set-up with taditional timber frame with ply sheathing) Instead of UPVC why not consider http://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/Cladding/Cedral-Weatherboard.aspx cheaper than UPVC last time I priced some up and looks a whole lot better.

95cm. So if I make sure timber frame is 100cm from boundary, then no further modifications will be needed. I don't think that's a lot of space to lose. Will, this need design overhaul or just compliance ensuring 100cm gap is maintained.

Use Hardie or Cedral clad... As said, this won't improve the insulative performance of ceiling/roof by much.

...(guidance note attached - I don't know if it's still current) and then there's the combustibility of the cladding itself, perhaps something like cedral cladding may be more appropriate? The flue should also be at least 30-60cm's from any door or opening, which may limit placement of the doorway.

...need replacing (the low stuff always rots). The shed wasn't cheap John, no. But I built it to last and to be largely maintenance free. The Cedral alone cost £1'067 and I fetched it myself. That included the trims. I used odd-leg window/door (£1'150 fitted) so that I could save money...

...but I think EWI as well given the current situation - has anyone done the maths? As a DIYer I was thinking of cement board (Hardie/Cedral) cladding fixed to horizontal battens over 50mm celotex? What I find a bit annoying is that the planning system (where brickwork will often have to be...

...build thread, albeit it's a bit behind current state now... Edit: Also, when it comes to cladding, I had a similar issue with needing to have non-flammable cladding due to proximity to boundary. I went with Cedral fibre cement cladding. Easy to install, lots of color options and not too...

Hi, Just reading this thread with interest as I’m about to install Cedral Click on the front gable of my house. Does any one have any top tips or things to watch out for. In particular the jointing pattern. I’m not sure how visible the joints will be. I’m thinking I should avoid lined up...

...original 130 year old timber sash windows which were completely solid despite years of neglect. My Dad's 1980's mahogany frames were rotten after 20 years even with regular coatings of Sikkens. I know they're not designed for the job but have you considered cement boards - Hardie or Cedral etc.

Thanks, I will have a chat with a gas person before the boiler gets moved. It might be the door has to go on the right hand side as the boiler will be on the left but I want to avoid that as it will lose more space in the garage.

you cannot put a price on a job to keep the missus happy, right?(y)