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Two problems now. I opened the small valve with pliers (though forgot to switch everything off) and bled it. Unfortunately when I screw it back on with the pliers as tight as I can it still leaks. I didn't remove the cap so I doubt it's cross-threaded. I have a grip wrench but I don't know...

Thanks for coming back. I bled the

The pipes on the left as we look do not go into the boiler - two horizontal pipes on the right do, the upper one is lukewarm and comes from the diverter valve, and of course the pipe exiting the boiler at top middle. Thanks

Thanks very much again, off to a tea dance, will post picture later.

Thanks very much for replying. The pipe is only just warm when it enters the cylinder. I have slid across the little lever on the diverter valve to manual position. It doesn't seem to want to click up into position, I don't know if it 'has to' or not, but this hasn't made any difference.

We have a worcester bosch 30 cdi greenstar conventional with a hot water cylinder upstairs with a thermostat limpeted to it. There are no fault codes on the boiler, and I have reset it a couple of times so the pilot light should be working. I have looked at the diverter valve and all three...

Thanks for the feedback everyone - probs going to go with a new cooker. The timer doesn't seem to be the issue. My OH supervised the operation and she is competent having completely rewired a two-storey house in her younger days. We took a punt that it would be the element as that seems to be...

Further - pulled the cooker out from under the units and took the back off. No surprise there was a nut on the hexagonal bolt that had to be undone. The earth connection is looped round the rear side of the hexagonal bolt and obviously pings off when you remove the old element. It's buried...

Yes will do, thanks for that fellows.

Thanks very much for the answers. Is it a diy job. do you think ?

I have bought a replacement element (the one surrounding the fan at the back of the oven) but I can't get the old one out. The problem seems to be the hexagonal shaped bolt on the left - see picture of new element. It is the last thing holding the old element in but I can't remove it. It...

Thanks, for that, looks to be the route we'll take.

The above is my problem. It's all a bit of a mess including the hearth. I want to make it pristine. Do I 1. Tile over the existing tiles, there is a fair degree of unevenness? 2. Glue plasterboard over the existing tiles then tile over the plasterboard? 3. Chip off all the old tiles and...

Out of courtesy and to help anyone else with the same problem. We called in a local sparkie, very reasonable at £35 a visit North London, who took out the relevant MCB. It was scorched and slightly cracked. As an interim measure he switched it to an upstairs light circuit - problem solved...

again thanks for all the help

Thanks to both for your replies. Will look into swapping mcbs tomorrow. Just tried it again - had a total of 350 watts switched on and "added" a light in a room not normally used (under the stairs) and it tripped. So, yes, it's not overloading or overheating of one light in particular...

Well done , Wilson - I was wondering who'd be the first to spot that Many thanks - duly edited.

I have an MK electric consumer unit with a 6amp mcb for the downstairs lights. Whenever I switch on more than say 4 lights the circuit breaker trips (just the 6amp one relevant to the downstairs lights, not the main one for all the electrics). It does not seem to matter in which rooms the...