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Oil was always more efficient than gas so gas gains much more by condensing. But the problem with oil is that it smells. That's not a problem with a flue gas of 180C as the smells are up and away, just the pigeons go what a whiff :). Condensing oil is a lot colder flue gas and you get plumes...

You will probably need to use converts to change 22mm to 32mm and back so you can have a trap. I guess they might make a 22mm trap but getting one is another matter. Alternately why not just make the 22mm loop down and back to make a running trap yourself? 75mm should be enough. Or you could...

Hi, I'm looking for a whirlpool bath. One I'm considering is in plumbase, Bronte Easy Bergamot Whirlpool, 1800x800. But finding one to look at seems to be impossible, unless anyone knows of store with one on display? Anyone got one? I've also looked at the Bathstore wash which is cheaper...

H allows opposite branches if they are swept which a branch fitting is so I reckon that is compliant. With soil pipes there is the danger with too much slope of leaving the solids behind, hence the rule of thumb I believe of 1:40 for 4in pipe, 1:60 for a 6in.

This isn't the dry part of the stack. Basically I have 2 soil pipes exiting a wall at the same level with the stack in between them. I could use a double 87.5 deg branch so both pipes have a -2.5 deg angle. Or I could use a 67.5 deg with a a 87.5 deg on top. One pipe would have -2.5deg angle...

Building regs H 2015 says WC branch pipe can have a slope of 18-90mm/m (page 9) which works out as ~1 deg to ~5 deg. Floplast, for example, do stack connections at 87.5 deg (-2.5deg) and 67.5 deg (-22.5) and 45 (-45 deg). Only the first of those meets the regs H so what am I missing? Or can I...

Hi, How does BS5534 work for a flat roof running into a pitched roof (such as at a dormer). NHDB 72. S12(e) says run the flat roof up the pitch for 150mm in height (262mm at 35 deg), and provide a tile bottom support at ~150mm into the run, under the felt. But BS5534 says edges are double...

As I understand it BS5534 is law and is only enforced by NHBC and LABC, so only applies to a new. I've a house extension where I need some second tiles which I don't seem to be able to get. My plan is to rob the ones off the front of the garage and replace those with new and also replace the...

Hi, What is the usual rendering beading? I know house corners have corner beads and the lowest point of the render (or dpc) has bellcast. At the window reveals you have stop beads, are these just vertical or do they follow the sill line too? Is there a stop bead at the sill ends and under...

My suggestions: Look at loft legs to raise the floor. Easier than adding wood beams and less weight added to roof trusses. Look at rockwool RWA45. This is a sound insulating product, 45kg/m3 (anything over 10kg/m3 is said to be sound insulating so this is one of the better ones). It's also...

Well, it's not that important and it would tell me the render had failed so it's a moot point. Maybe it would be useful to know the render has failed before it falls off and breaks the porch tiles.....

That why I said this is a porch so the outside wall stays the outside wall. If the render failed then I'd see water on the wall at the front door.

Thanks. I've seen a picture of bellcast bead screwed over lead so the lead goes up behind the render, rather than be fixed into a slot. Would that not work too? I should add that this is a porch roof so the wall is outside always, no cavity trays needed (I think).

Hi, I'm confused. Where a pitched roof runs with a wall to one side do you have soakers (lead under tile) and then flashing on top of the tile as well, or is it one or the other? And do I use soaker secret gutter? Plus the wall is to rendered so is the top flashing just screwed under the...

Sound insulation you mean? Sound transmission has 3 paths, air leakage (so seal all holes), transmission plasterboard to cavity air to plasterboard, and plasterboard to timber to plasterboard. Metal C frames have less coupling than timber so make a bit quieter wall. Although I wonder what...

68x38 is standard finished size cls. You get 100mm thick wall, well 102mm I guess as I'm using 15mm plasterboard for better noise reduction. Wikipedia says the 2 horizontal noggins are a good move for stiffness which is not a big increase in wood. I'm not sure how that affects sound...

What are the pros and cons? As far as I can find, metal is slight better for noise reduction, quicker than timber, and always straight. But there seems some doubt about hanging stuff of it and I guess by the same token, metal stud rigidity. Does that sum it up? I can't find any bending force...

Thanks. I should have said that I have looked at selfbuild zone, buildstore.co.uk, protek and proaktive. I've also tried Versatile Insurance who turned out to be brokers and just quoted me self-build zone again (which btw looks same as buildstore quote form). Versatile was disappointing...

I'm looking for suggestions on where to go for site insurance. My project is converting a bungalow to house so a big job. I've run the ABI calculator to get rebuild prices for old bungalow and new house which I think is the only way to do it as this a mix of builder doing the shell, me doing...

You could stick single sided tape on to the window. You'd need to mark the window first to have line to stick it to. But I still prefer my suggestion of packing the back to push the window forward. Were the other windows you compared the credit card insertion also liniar? If not it might be...