Search results

Yes that is what it looks like. Form the pictures of Torbeck and fluidmaster I would have said it was fluidmaster. I suppose it might be worthwhile taking the valve apart to check there is no muck in, but I would have though that would give leaking or slow filling rather than making the action...

Cistern is a roper rhodes cascade. Dunno what valve that is.

So new cistern connected to cold water mains via plastic push fit and old copper pipe. New cistern valve seems to snap off rather than the slow close of ball valves. The creates a hammer more in the old pipe work which was "professionally" done when the house was built. That is supported and...

Perhaps I should have said I've measured the temperature drop across the boiler and adjusted the pump speed. Hence the 2 setting the pump is on is right. But FYI boiler is 15kW, there are 16 rads, total ~13.5kW and house loss at -1C works out as 7kW (system has evolved somewhat). Pipework...

Non return valves are quite useful. When I had a coal fired back boiler I had one inline with the pump. The pump opened it when it operated and when the pump stopped it was closed by its spring. It prevent gravity circulation in the pumped side. In this fully pumped oil fired system the...

It's oil fired, a HRM wallstar. Actually now I think I know what is going on I have a couple of solutions and I'll probably fit both. One is a check valve around the pump. I have one in system, but it comes from the vent pipe to pump output. I think it wants to be near the pump as once I...

I don't have a pumping over problem because the issue is surging at pump switch off. Cold feed and vent are about 2in apart. I'm pretty sure I have the right of it with it being ringing in the vent/feed U caused by the sudden stop shockwave.

OK, so where do I get 42mm copper and 42-22 reducers? Best I've found is 35mm at plumbase (and I have to buy 3m!). Update: I've found some 42mm 1.5m, at jtm plumbing online but I think I now have a better solution.

I think I may have a handle on this and why joining the feed and vent helps. Let's first get rid of what I don't think is happening 1. Pump expands the radiators/pipe when running (balloon effect). When pump turns off water goes back up to F&E tank, some up the overflow. Gut call is...

The valves in the cold feed are gate valves which are normally fully open so no different from pipe work. It seemed to me that restricting the flow reduced the overflow into the tank. A bit like there was a pulse sending the water up the vent pipe and sucking in fresh from the cold feed. But...

Why? The recommend route is to bring the cold feed below the 22mm pipe the come up to join the 22mm pipe. That way you don't get thermal cycling with hot water rising up the cold feed pipe.

Does anyone know where you can find one these surge expansion vessels as shown in the "Low Head Installation" diagram?

You'll have to explain that as it makes no sense to me. Oh, OK, now I see that the forum has posted twice when it should have just edited the one post with the update.

The valve is the cold feed is for draining down, saves tying up the ballcock or turn off all the cold water. I've actually got 2 with a drain cock in between which allows me to flush the header tank to waste without throwing away all the rad water and inhibitor. Or to add chemicals into rad...

The valve is the cold feed is for draining down, saves tying up the ballcock or turn off all the cold water. I've actually got 2 with a drain cock in between which allows me to flush the header tank to waste without throwing away all the rad water and inhibitor. Or to add chemicals into rad...

Hi, Suggestions as to how I might cure this. The layout is that the vent pipe is on the inlet side of the pump as in the header feed. The feed comes in looping under then up and the vent comes straight out and up. There is a auto bypass valve around the pump. So all is as it should be...

Hi, In my plan I'm ending up with the floor (18mm chip) overhanging the last joist by about 8-9 in. I reckon I need to support that. I can't add an extra joist/noggin, that is a H between the joist so the bar of the H supports the edge. I'm blocked from inserting the right hand vertical of...

That's what I plan to do, fit "stone" but I wasn't sure if pearlstone is "stone" or not. In fact I don't this this one will do anyway. I wanted to get the drain the other side of the joist but I reckon the drain on this is 643mm to the edge, not 450mm as my brain thought (stupid brain)...

Hi, I've read that stone shower trays are better. They are more a pain to fit but the light weight ones drum from the water hitting them. I've come across pearlstone. Are these "stone" that is dead to noise so no problem with the shower hitting the tray? TIA

Heating oil is 10.35 kWh / litre on top of that you need to allow for say 84% efficiency for a good non condensing oil boiler or 93% for a good condensing, giving 8.7 kWh/l or 9.6kWh/l. Oil is around 60p/l ex VAT. Gas is lot cheaper. In fact E7 night rate is cheaper than oil. If your...