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Hi All I've got a loft hatch in a hallway that needs to be made bigger. This is a bungalow whose main pitched roof is of Purlin type, with 4 x 2 joists running at ° to rafters. The plan is to change the position of one of the trimmers - hatch door hinge side - then make a bigger door and...

Gosh, what did I start :-) Thanks Flame, yes it's annual cover basically for checking the system, i.e. sensor, battery and supply testing etc. I'll be charged for parts if any are found to be duff. Obvs will be paying for new batteries as it seems at least one is NFG. Re the thread, so...

Thanks Sparky. Eric, thanks. Yes mine might be a 2 batt system too. I've not noticed if the panel goes out when the breaker's off. Appreciate what you've mentioned about responder time... interesting. Good point about the zones too. I've never had a house with an alarm, so it might be...

Thanks guys, I wasn’t really considering by what means I’d become aware that the alarm might be non-functional, (without power) but yeah, that’s a point. I’m not familiar with the house or the alarm properly yet and the alarm has had a dead BU backup battery since I’ve been working on it, so...

Huh, very useful info, thanks a lot.

Thanks Taylor. It seems there's been a history of the lighting circuit MCB tripping when lamps have blown (an array of filament ones currently) so trying to get away from that nonsense. Also, for convenience we've just renewed the alarm support contract until I can make other arrangements...

Hi All, a couple of quick questions on burglar alarm feeds. We’re soon to be moving into a property where the BA power feed is on the lighting circuit. Without going into the obvious down side of this, I need to get it sorted properly. Would the ideal thing be to run it from a separate...

OK, thought I'd report my findings just to wrap it up. I got lucky with the first bunch of stuff I bought, as I got it to play together nicely. This is the line up: I x Varilight 2 gang 2 way V-pro dimmer - JQP252W (only using it as a one way, with one module running a single 60W GLS tungsten...

Thanks Eric. Yes I did think about using tungsten, but thought if I used LED there might be scope for playing around with the colour more (even if the difference was between bulb types, i.e. Warm, Daylight, Coolwhite). It seems the person this is for, does seem partial to using dozens of cheap...

Thanks for the detail Bernard. Do you think it might be in my favour to perhaps be a little less ambitious and head for a more narrow range, i.e. at maximum brightness, not as bright as in my OP? I'm just looking for a starting point to try and suck it and see. It's unlikely that I'll be...

Hi All I’m looking to dim 2 x 13W Dimmable LED E27 bulbs (in parallel). After a bit of reading it looks like I need a trailing edge dimmer that will accommodate a total minimum load of 26W (2 x 13W) or at least be adjustable to suit 26W. What I’m hoping to do is have them capable of full...

Hi Madrab Yes our kitchen is in the roof space, as is the whole flat (45° ceilings). The kitchen floor is on the same level as the gutter (yeah, does look weird having a waste pipe at that level) and yes it is the grey pipe that looks like a child has assembled it. I take your point about...

Hi All I was just wondering if anyone had any opinions on what I propose to do. There is a vented stack on the corner of the house running to a kitchen waste pickup drain. The only foul waste that runs into it is our kitchen waste (sink/washing machine) pipe. I was wondering if it's...

Hi Woody, My intention was to find out the root problem then re-render (in that order) if it came to it, and I get what you're saying. Yes, I'll seriously consider what you've said about filling the crack with those materials, it sounds logical, thank you. I'm figuring if the crack gets wider...

Thanks for flagging that. So if I did mastic it, it would be best to do it after a long dry spell presumably? So Foxhole, do you reckon I should remove some render from the top where the crack starts and where it's at it's widest. At least if I do that suppose I'll know if there is a crack in...

Ken, thank you for your contribution and highlighting the main virtue of this technique by helping the "professionals" relax a little : - ). Even without that aspect though, to me it seems a lot less hassle than re-rendering the wall. My thoughts are also that if this was due to subsidence...

Thanks foxhole. Looks like you are adding to the consensus that leans towards "it ain't a major issue" (he said with caution). From what I gather cutting out the cracked bit, and I presume you're saying just the crack itself, makes for quite a bit of work to try and make it look reasonably...

Woody, as far as I can see, the render has no crack in it below 1M from the ground. Are you thinking that in spite of he render's crack only being hairline at 1M, there might also be a continuation of it in the brickwork itself, underneath the render reaching the ground? Eagle eye for clocking...

Sorry Woody, forgot to say there's no plasterboard involved, it's a solid brick wall.

Hi Woody, thanks. As far as I can see without taking the render off, the lowest the crack goes to is about a metre from the ground, so no, it doesn't go all the way to the ground (if that's what you're asking). I would need to take the render off below the point where the crack in the render...