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Can someone remind me how to take this tap (see attached photo) apart? I've done it years ago but can not remember how! I've unscrewed the lever but the remaining shaft won't budge. I have a feeling I had to take the dome underneath off but it won't budge so I don't want to force it unless I'm...

The electric towel rail is currently connected via a fused spur switch that is outside the bathroom (the cable passes through a wall). It's also fed with hot water via the gas central heating but I assume that's irrelevant. I wanted more sophisticated control of the towel rail so I replaced the...

The existing pipe goes across the back of the cupboard and I'd like to keep any new plumbing up against the back wall so as not to waste any space. Cheers

Ah OK, that wouldn't quite work as my T would be pointing up and the end of the 'hockey stick' would be horizontal (and I need to keep it all in one plane) but as a previous poster suggested, a right angle joint would turn the end of the 'hockey stick' into an S trap... Thanks!

I'm not quite sure what you mean by the hockey stick type trap, can you find a picture? Thanks!

That's all well and good but it's no use for adding into an existing horizontal(ish) waste pipe as I described in my original post. Thanks for trying!

I have finally got around to this little job and have discovered a problem. I was planning to add a swept T join into the existing 'horizontal' waste pipe and then have an S trap above that with a couple of feet of vertical on top for the washing machine outlet to feed into. My problem is that...

Would the self-cutting one not still need a trap between it and the waste stack or does the non-return valve replace a trap?

I'm planning on moving my washing machine from the kitchen to a large cupboard that is next to the kitchen. The waste pipe from the kitchen passes through the cupboard so I think I just need to add in an appropriate waste fitting for the washing machine. The existing waste pipe is about a foot...

OK, I've just made an alarming discovery about the electric panel heaters (all centrally controlled by relays and a timer unit) in my flat. Basically, the supply cables have perished and where their bad design has them entering the units in a tight bend, all three metal cores are exposed...

I've now tried something similar to the slam-stop but instead of slowing down the closing of the door, it actually stops it if it's going too quickly and doesn't then release it. It's something like the mechanism of a car seat belt reel, the pressure needs to be released before the door will...

Looking more at the subject makes me think a closer is no longer required for fire reasons... In that case I'm tempted to remove it completely. It's my front door so it's not like I leave it open other than to walk through it! Opinions? Thanks!

The front door of my flat is susceptible to slamming. The door is between my flat and a communal stairwell. The door is fitted with a concealed chain type closer (I'm not sure if it has a proper name...) between the door and frame. The combination of the concealed closer and airflow (I always...

It's in my bedroom.

I'm considering replacing a single socket (on a ring) with a double socket. Am I allowed to do this myself and do I have to notify anyone or get it checked? Are there any other issues to consider? Thanks!

The leak was related to the roof, I currently have a few blocks missing as part of the investigation and scaffold outside. I won't be letting the blocks (and plasterboard) be replaced until the leak is most definitely fixed! It's in my bedroom which is currently slightly draughty due to the...

OK, the plasterboard is currently off the wall after a water leak soaked it. It's being replaced by the freeholder's contractor and I spied the opportunity to get another socket in. How should I go about this? I'm thinking: 1. Chase hole ready for box 2. Put plastic conduit in place from...

OK, so assuming I chase out some of the concrete block, should I still use a plasterboard box? I assume I should use conduit to take the cables behind the plasterboard and down below the floor? Thanks!

I plan to add a double socket to a wall which is plasterboard with a gap behind it and then concrete block. I have ~22mm from the face of the block to the surface of the plasterboard. Are there any shallow dry wall / plasterboard sockets out there or will it have to be a metal box fixed to the...

Hmmmmm, maybe not...