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Ok great! I'm flush. It wasn't too bad in the end. Even the tiled floor is intact. It was more confidence than anything else, and not wanting to break anything. Pipe goes vertically down at least 4 feet before turning. I bought one of these drain bungs but how the hell you supposed to screw...

Ok I'm here

Please see latest photo. S trap is part of the pan itself (now broken) and goes vertically down into a mortar pedestal.

It's out. The s trap is still solid in the hole.

SDS drill is making good work of the pedestal. Pan is still solid though. Should I break the s trap with a hammer?

I've started chipping at the base pedestal and the pan is quite well embedded within it. Will a multi tool blade cut the s trap?

Do you mean chip at the base pedestal or the toilet pan itself? My main worry is damaging the foul drain and then I can't block it off. It's a live line downstream of the house soil pipe.

Pictures attached. There's some kind of pedestal at the soil pipe connection too.

Hi. I am going to removing an outside toilet. The water supply and cistern is fine, but it's the pan that I want to ask about. It's sitting on a concrete pedestal, no obvious screws so it's probably mortared in. The outlet is a S trap at the rear which goes down vertically into the soil pipe...

Yes Timeguard do a version without (TGBT4) and with (FBT4N).

Here's a picture. Socket is behind furniture unit (green blob), flex cable (green) runs up the wall, across the beam and to the IR heater mounted up high. I want to fit a boost timer (time guard tgbt4 or fbt4n) where the purple blob is.

So if I have the flex cable from the heater panel running down some surface mounted trunking on the wall, into a boost switch at chest height, out and then down to socket level where the flex just comes out of the trunking on a 13A plug, that will be ok? Will look a bit bodge? Heater I think is...

Bathroom not big enough. I could but still need an accessible switch for the heater panel. At moment it's flex from the socket, up the wall across the ceiling and down to the heater. The ceiling is high, 3.5m up.

Not good practice to wire a fixed panel heater through a boost timer into a 3 pin plug though is it.

Thanks. Shame, a single socket + single FCU sounds like a useful product. I'll look into enlarging the hole then. Or maybe I make a new hole alongside and do a spur off the double socket. Or a surface mount alongside actually would be easier but not the best looking.

Hi all. My girlfriends flat which she is about to rent out has a double plug socket in the bathroom. Obviously Im aware this is not allowed so needs to be removed. It used to be a flex outlet for a panel heater. She removed this, swapped it to a socket, and installed a new overhead infrared...

Hi. I have a standard double socket on the ring circuit. I want to have a fused connection unit with a flex outlet instead. These all seem to be 1 gang size. I was hoping to find something that allows me to convert a double socket into something else. Either a 2-gang FCU or a combined FCU and...

Its uncertain on the tariff actually. The website does state electric radiators indeed, but the T&C only state heat pump, and my partner did phone them to ask about it and they said no. We are going to do it online and see. Don't see what difference it makes to octopus whether we use a few...

Thanks for all the feedback and ideas. After consideration and research my proposal is as follows. 1. Install 3 of these heaters in the main living space and bedroom. They are LOT20 standard which means they have stat, timer/programmer and open window detection. That will satisfy the min...

I completely agree. It's a lovely building, lovely apartment, very unique. I can see why she bought it. But would have been a great opportunity for an efficient centralised heating system, or including solar on the vast roof space. Thing is, it's not even mandatory nowadays so what can you do...