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Consult the manufacturer's instruction easily available on line. This valve differs from many.

Basically it needs to be above the height of the burner but as Muggles says, on a long run or one with many turns, a larger bore pipe may be needed .

Maybe the reward for a return trip coupled with the low cost of the part would not be sufficient for the job. I doubt you would be happy with a £50+ bill for the repair.

If the burner fires before the control box initiates the solenoid then it will lock out as a false flame. It would appear that the solenoid valve is passing as when you turn pressure right down it operates correctly. Clean out the solenoid port and if it still fails, replace the pump.

Is this a combi or heat only boiler? Either way I can't see it being a timer/programmer problem, but more a control/DHW thermostat OR a circulation problem within the system.

There is a flange gasket that may have degraded over time. More often though the leak is from the access panel or flue connections. With an analyser, the source of the leak is soon identified.

Can you not use fixings on the inside of the brackets? They would be less intrusive there.

Looking at the T&Cs, it is not a contract I would like to enter into. Being responsible for damage can open a real can of worms, and an analyser used on oil boilers is subject to more contamination than on other fuels.

A pressure gauge will only cost about £10 tops from a pneumatic/hydraulic supplies merchant. I can't think of any hire options for an analyser which is an easily destroyed item in inexperienced hands.

On many taps, the manufacturers instructions specify only fixing to hand tight. I had one just before christmas where the basin tap was with a horshoe washer held in by an 8mm nut. I ended up cutting through the tap and screw above the basin . The waste was a knackered push one and just to...

Take a template to your local merchant and see the available stock.

If you can get hot water, then it's not the boiler stopping your heating. Either you have a valve problem (2 or 3 port depending on system configuration) or If on gravity hot water,(quite likely on an oil system this old) a faulty pump.

Failed solenoid in the shower?

If it's a mixer, which I assume it is from the 'turned up to the red' quote, then that probably would not work. You could try turning down any isolation valve on the hot inlet, but that may need balancing with the cold supply.

Air damper settings specified in any manuals are next to useless. Settings need to be made specifically to a burner, ideally with an analyser, once all oil pressures have been verified. The old fashioned way of doing this was to set to 'smoke' and then back it off a little but this is a time...

If your boiler was set up 'lean' in warmer weather, it may now be too lean to provide a valid flame until it warms a little, and the photocell will initiate reignition. Without a full combustion analysis to eliminate this it is difficult to comment further

This is a very basic system by the sound of it. On a gravity H/W system heating alone cannot be selected. With the Hot water on and the boiler running, you can switch the pump to get heating. A room stat could control the pump and therefore the heating, and the boiler stat will control the flow...

The difference between a dribble of condensation water and the flow of primary water from a failed expansion vessel is very noticeable.

Check your fuel supply/filters for frozen sludge.

What is the full model of the Heatslave? 15/19 is a relatively old model, and is the 'reset' button actually the overheat stat?