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Looks like however they have made the joint has split the rail. Send the pictures to the MD at the company and ask if he is happy with this because you are not. They have a nice website. I suspect they won't want those pix against their name. Edit your post to remove it for now, and tell them...

+1

It's 20 years ago!. Are you bothered? certainly the LA won't be, so this is just a tick-box exercise. As long as it surveys OK, take the path of least resistance - maybe just accepting the conveyancer says it's OK, or maybe an indemnity if necessary (a waste of time and money, but sometimes...

yes

I suspect there's more around than you think. Son's house in E17 has just been completely rewired but had singles in conduit like this in many places. 18 months ago he did have the CU replaced and all circuits passed testing at the time....

Here's a raft I did for a garage. It's 150mm in the centre with an approx 300x450 edge "beam". My C.Eng MICE son sprinkled holy water on my design and said it would be fine, as it has proved. https://community.screwfix.com/threads/garage-work-in-progress.222282/ The stepped edge has proved 100%...

Yes - was connected to one of these https://www.quirepace.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/07/Nurse_carrier_543.png and we ended up having to install a valve to block of the service tube when not in use to stop the chimneying effect of the air being pushed through all the time by the pressurised...

I hope you've found all the comments helpful. It sounds like you have your head around this challenge, and like you, I like to find solutions. I'm 100% sure it can be made to work - it's just getting all the factors in play worked out. FWIW, in a different world, I have installed 160mm tube...

Look, I'm not a ventilation specialist, I am however a specialist in air movement in pipes for central vacuuming and pneumatic transport, hence the advice to talk to a specialist in this field. Input the parameters in to AI and see the answer! There are several challenges - enough flow to push...

That's because fires are very hot!. The problem here is the static back pressure. Pushing an air column vertically gives you a back pressure, and the smaller the duct and faster the airflow, the bigger the back pressure. For many fans the flow rate starts falling off a cliff as back pressure...

It's not the distance, or even the direction - it's the temperature gradient. A normal kitchen extractor will be extracting warm humid air full of cooking byproducts. The short duct runs mean that the gases and vapours are still warm gases and vapours when they get to the open air. In a...

I think I would seek advice from a professional catering extraction company. The condensation hazard is not just water, but cooking fats and grease that will condense on the inside of the flue potentially presenting a fire risk, which the chimney effect will exacerbate should it ever ignite. In...

If you hang the blinds on the archs which stand away from the windows, the gap between the blinds at the angle in relation to the window frame has to be even bigger to avoid the inner corners of the blinds clashing. Draw it to scale in plan view from the top with 50mm blinds and you'll see...

Just be aware that any vented air moving up the chimney will do one of two things. If the top of the chimney stack in the loft or the exposed bit is at a temperature lower than the dew point of the air going in the bottom, you will get condensation on the inner surface which will probably get...

Planning will not consider the right of way, so even if planning permission is granted, if it is over a right of way owned by a third party then it could still result in litigation. The right of way is a "thing" that the dominant owner possesses separately to the ownership of property and the...

I agree that construction moisture is the most likely. There is another consideration in that garden buildings get used infrequently. If allowed to get very cold, the blocks have a high thermal capacity, and will take a good while and fair bit of heat to warm up (Think storage heaters). If the...

+1 for the cheap screwfix. I've had the screwfix one https://www.screwfix.com/p/electric-concrete-mixer-230v/10107 for 7-8 years. Doesn't get used that often, so for DIY use is absolutely fine.

I agree with @tony1851 - I'd just do it. I wouldn't brick it up though. I'd lay a concrete lintel across the gap to raise the level slightly which will keep the timber clear of the ground, and also, with a bead of sealant under help protect against water ingress - won't take much fixing, and...

I hope the wall is flat! Had to do a rush tiling job at Son's house a while back. I said don't get Metros, and what did he get - Metros, and wanted brick bond! Cement was 15mm thick in the middle of the run trying to eliminate the lippage!

Probably better to assume it's detached, then there's probably no building regs (if under 30sqm internal) as there may be if you extend the house. Just need planning.