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Right, now thinking about how the bulbs are going to hang. As the loft has wooden beams, not a ceiling, obviously I can't use a standard pendant set up. I require to use bulb holders of sort, which I'll attach to a wooden beam, where the wiring enters the bulb holder from the SIDE, not from the...

Rather than be concerned with messy wiring, what about I use this junction box; https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07D2GJ569/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A33XSC68ZCGBM7&psc=1 and also the splitter box, so I can wire 3 bulbs to fully illuminate my loft...

I think I prefer that option. Could I use this junction box? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ashley-Downlighter-Junction-Hager-Klik/dp/B01L4PP32Y/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1531233043&sr=8-15&keywords=junction+box I watched this instruction video. Is this good and correct for what I want to do?

Right, I unscrewed the light switch in my bedroom, the one with a dimmer. This is what I saw: I followed the cable from the ceiling rose for the bedroom light and it went down this hole, which is near to the light switch: I had a little rummage around the loft, following these grey...

The photo below is taken from the loft, of the nearest celing rose (bedroom light) to where I would like to put my loft light: As you can see there is one thick grey cable running to this ceiling rose. The white cables are for other things not connected with the lighting circuit. From the...

Cables At Corner by MoonMan2 posted 20 Jan 2018 at 10:36 AM I'd like to remove about 3cm x 1cm of the corner of this wooden door, it's where the door hinges (not where it opens). Currently I cannot close the door fully, and it kinks the cables when I do. If I manage to somehow create a...

The angle of slope in my shower cubicle tray is off by a few degrees. The water gathers on the adjacent corner from the water exit hole (don't know the technical name). By use of a spirit level, it confirmed by suspicions. I removed the wooden boards below the shower basin/tray...

Thanks, stuart45; so the answer to question 1, is the texture is intentional and the answer to question 2, is the brick will last longer than this intentional 'slop texture'. The house was built in 1999. If the 'slop' of the bricks has lasted 16 years before beginning to erode and the actual...

terrypin; if I may draw attention to what I said in my original post. Whilst I can only accept what you're saying, that the mortar application style between the bricks isn't ideal for my part of the country, you must accept that there is no such 'Facial shedding' occurring with the red bricks...

I have looked at the neighbours houses and many of their yellow bricks have similar questionable 'outer applied facial render'. JohnD; no, there is no issue with poor guttering or overflow pipe. In fact the guttering, soffits and fascia were all replaced last year. However, we do get a hell of...

I have noticed on my house thin layers of brick shedding off some of the yellow bricks - not the red ones (they appear to have a different, rougher cast finish). When the 'shedding' occurs, it appears to reveal a smoother yellow surface of the brick, almost like the brick is losing its 'old...

I would like to install a light in the loft like this: http://www.diy.com/departments/bq-fluorescent-36w-batten-light-l1220mm/61773_BQ.prd Of course I would need to buy a switch too. I intend to power it by use of a mains supply socket from the room immediately below where I want the...

Tried taking the 'wall end' off the wall, it's the same welded disc interface to hold the metal tube. Is finding a new mirror bracket the only answer?

This is a wall bracket which holds a mirror. I would like to reduce the size of the tube by about half. What type of metal is this, can I do it with a normal saw? The complicated bit is the end part. I would need to extract this small disc which the mirror screws into...