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There's too many factors and possibilities, amount of discharge, size, location and age of soakaway, drain runs, ground make up and percolation. It's not worth guessing. Get a site survey from a structural engineer. Make sure your water company is not charging you for drainage if your not...

You need to get your cost advice from a survey report, not an internet forum. You will have potential significant costs in the short and medium term, and the asking price is unlikely to reflect them.

I saw that, or something like it from kickstarter, pop up in my feed last week. I can see it being similar to my bosch 12v recip saw, which is only useful for certain light duty cutting. But I wonder in that format and size, if the internal mechanism is tough enough to cope with the loads it...

Expanding foam - fills and fixes.

Generally, you should not be fixing into the underside of an external steel lintel as that creates a risk of water penetration and it breaks the lintel coating creating a corrosion risk.

Delivered! From China!

Whats going on above? That bay corner post may be load bearing.

Render will be cheaper than jet fuel

I'd like to see a picture of this unconventional phenomenon of a single patch of mould behind a radiator and reoccurring even after the radiator has been removed. It's just not common or natural, and instead of looking for extravagant solutions, you may need to look at what you have done or...

Yes No Sometimes

The render is the waterproof layer, and if it's not performing as such then it's failed and should be renewed. Generally, paint won't adhere to common masonry water repellent systems such as silicones, silane and siloxanes, and even if it did, it will likely compromise the very hydrophobicity...

The whole point of the batten is to screw the tile joint clips into to hold the ridge tiles down, and 19mm seems a bit thin. The actual depth and thickness of the batten is specified by the system manufacturer and can depend on the type of ridge tile.

Not in the opening.

Search for "datum peg" and "setting out profiles". Start at the corners and work from them towards the middle of each elevation. 3:1 mix ratio. Make sure your line is not sagging on the sides where the beams will sit

The thread title says "Sick of Mould behind radiator", and the pedantic me can't ignore that, or the poor and incorrect capitalisation.

That studwork, if not designed to be load bearing, certainly is now and should be in turn supported by a suitable beam.

Extensions are normally tied with ties that allow for movement of the extension. The joint should have been a foam backer and mastic joint not a mortar joint, but for now, widen and deepen the crack a little and use a polymer or polysulphide mastic. For the rendered images, I'm not sure of the...

That's a most unusual and least expected place for condensation mould to occur. Lack of air-flow is part of the equation and conditions for a mould-growing environment, and the area behind a radiator is going to get not just a lot of air flow but be a very dry area too which condensation mould...

There is nothing wrong with a timber framed house, just differences compared to traditional, and some of those differences may or may not be significant to the occupants. Generally, timber frame is less adaptable to changes/alteration/improvement and more susceptible to damage from lack of...

Yes that's a bodge. Take some tiles up and put some felt, or lead under to cover the corner. Use bird-comb fillers to fill that triangle in the tile (or a proprietary filler piece if available), not foam which prevents drainage and moves water sideways