Search results for query: "neon screwdriver"

With new ones yes, not back in 1980 when I first came across them. I found the cheap stick type does not have a graded response. Both the buzzer rate, and number of bars shown go in four stages with the multi-meter type, well one of mine only three stages, but that is a really cheap...

A NCV is always my first go-to, test instrument, and has been so for many years. The sensing area, is quite easily reduced, and restricted, by putting your fingertips, around the tip of the device, maybe combined by pulling out/spacing the wires more.

I note the new breed, but seems it needs batteries the hole idea was a tester which could not be turned off, or fail due to depleted batteries. KISS (Keep it simple, silly) has a lot going for it. My non-contact voltage tester, works well, with many functions in the same device, and the NCV...

If you say so :-) All theoretically true but, despite your pal's experience, I think only the first two of those drawbacks are even remotely common (and someone who uses a wet one is just as daft as the person who uses a wet 'VDE' screwdriver :-) ). They definitely have some uses, but should...

Well Really! They have been Outlawed !!! Have you not seen that Picture of a Policeman with an Amnesty Bin for Neon Screwdrivers? S it must be true ;) . They were very popular in the 60s even with Electricians. Drawbacks - Could not always be seen in strongish sunlight , could give you a...

As I recently wrote, LED ones are probably better/safer, since they ought to be able to detect voltages which are too low for a neon screwdriver to detect, but nevertheless quite 'high' (and, in some contexts, potentially dangerous). Having said that, I think all the ones I have are neon ones :-)

WHY NOT when they are such a useful piece of kit?

DO NOT have a Neon Screwdriver (but if you dothen never admit it! ;) )

As @JohnD says, proving dead is a long-winded process for items one can't unplug, and likely most of us don't follow the process to the letter. In fact only one job was I required to walk around with a proving unit, in the main I am naughty and just you two testing devices, the likelihood of...

You can't assume a switch actually works, disconnects all poles, and is correctly wired. You can test each of the terminals to make sure. The correct procedure is longer than you'd think, and includes testing your meter, testing the appliance, isolating it, testing the appliance again, then...

OK, I understand. Thanks. As you say, in that situation some current would flow through them if they found something earthed to toch at the same time as touching that 'live' plate. In any event, as you go on to say ... Every one I've ever taken apart has had a series resistor of at least...

Lets assume for now the switch has a metal plate. Now suppose that the earth wire to the switch becomes disconnected from the earthing system, but the neon is still connected to the switch plate. Now the current flowing through the neon has "nowhere to go". The switch plate becomes "live". If...

I have multiway to measure current. These are the easy-to-use method, but these today also measure it, plus using my old multimeter I select an easy method, depending what I am working on. The red and black meter in the first picture has a NCV (non-contact voltage) option, this is handy to see...

Do you possess any test equipment, at all - volt-stick, test meter, even a neon screwdriver?

I have to say I've had a quick response to calls too, 5-10 years back A saw the bottom wire of OH LV distribution sagging onto a telephone drop wire and pulling it down to about 7 feet. As it was nearly school chucking out time I volunteered to stand guard if they were coming straight out. 10-15...

This is also one of the rare occasions where neon screwdrivers come in handy. Touch the screwdriver to both terminals with the switch on and off. The one that lights up the screwdriver when the switch is on is the switched live.

Thank Yoooo Old Buffer, I wasn't expecting such a formidable response. What you have written is so clear that EVEN I can understand it. Thank you once again, for taking the time to impart all your knowledge - I shall be rolling up my sleeves tomorrow !!

Firstly, some afterthoughts which I should have put first! A. Make sure there is power going to the heating element(s). I.e. the switches are on and the circuit breakers / fuses in the consumer unit are passing current. B. If you have cheap rate electricity, make sure it is still connected...

Many power supplies use fig of 8 plug so line and neutral can be swapped. So there is no direct link to either live wire. But there will be some capacitive and/or inductive linking so a valve volt meter (draws no current) will show a voltage to earth. The problem is finding a reliable earth...

Sorry I felt I had to alter you comment.