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Does it not yellow over time- lining paper does, might take months but it it will turn brown/yellow.

Burning off old paint (read: melting it) is fine, however, the old paint may have lead in it. The H&SE recommend using a heat gun set at 500 degrees or lower. https://www.hse.gov.uk/construction/healthrisks/hazardous-substances/lead.htm I have a heat gun with a digital temperature range. To...

The PVA will help to reduce the suction and if the second coat is still tacky, it will help adhesion. You can buy 1L tins of PVA, alternatively use PVA wood glue if you have some- you might need to dilute that more though.

Are the projection/knock-on hinges also known as flag hinges? https://locksandhardwaredirect.co.uk/product/era-nexus-flag-hinge-for-upvc-doors/

I don't know the answer. Why do you think it will be a problem though? If the DPC is higher, I don't see what the problem is. Caveat alert- not my area of knowledge though. Best of luck.

I often mix acrylic artist paints in to 2 pack fillers to deal with holes in tiles. Never tried it outside though. It would help if the OP posted a photo of the bricks. A friend is a brick pointer. If the brick doesn't need to be pulled out, he will use sand and cement and then "paint" them...

On the occasions that I use tape, I remove it as soon as the paint starts to set. I have found that if you apply a second coat and wait too long it can rip the edge of the new paint as you remove it. @Wayners is also a decorator. I believe he occasionally sprays skirtings etc. My spraying is...

The end panel makes sense. The unit butts up to the wall on the left. The panel eliminates any problems with the return wall being out of square. These days doors are often sold in a multitude of colours, I guess it would not be practical to make all of the carcasses match the door colour...

To be fair, the OP did say that they will empty cupboard. I guess they were waiting for confirmation that the end panel is screwed to the unit.

Perhaps I got the wrong end of the stick. I thought you were referring to the rubber grommets used in metal back boxes. Can you link to the rubber grommets that you were thinking of? The OP seems to be happy with the option suggested by @Tigercubrider

There is no need to thin the first coat. If you need to caulk, do so after the first coat of emulsion has been applied. If not the caulk may soak into the paper too quickly and ripple/pill at the edges before you smooth it. If you need to fill any seams, I would recommend doing so after the...

Personally, I think it is an end panel that is screwed from inside the unit. As you said, empty the unit and look for any screw heads. At a guess, there will be a minimum of 6 screws. The top and side may have a thin bead of caulk. You might need to run a knife along it to reduce the risk of...

Would they work in in 40mm thick MDF walls? Surely, at best, if they don't fall into the hole, they will only cover 0.5mm of the exterior hole. They work in metal socket plates because of the gap in the middle of the grommet (which holds the grommet in place). AFAIK, they are only used to...

You mean you weren't going to recommend a whole fire rated unit and frame to the OP? When it comes down to it, if the OP were to have a bonfire up against his home, that fire rated window would give him an extra 30+ minutes to walk downstairs and try to find a door not already on fire. Edit-...

Sure, other than dot and dab plasterboard, it is great for skim coats over a plaster base, but the OP seems to have a lath and plaster ceiling. In the two first scenarios, the foam has something to expand against (and helps to lock things in place). Expanding foam is great stuff, I also use it...

2-3mm should be fine. If the house is Victorian, the cornice may have been run in situ. The easiest way to tell is to look at the corners. If part of curve is set further back than the plaster, it was probably run in situ. Or at least, that is what I had been told. To be honest, I have never...

I often use foam to fill gaps. It is great for deep gaps but if the gap is dynamic and subject to movement, the foam will (probably) not lock it in place. It works really well for cracks in dot and dab plasterboard. The holes either side of the plasterboard is great for eliminating bounce. I...

Are they lath and plaster ceilings? If you push the cracks can you see any movement? I am a decorator. Providing that there isn't too much movement, I open the gap slightly. Then I vacuum the gap out and then brush in PVA. On occasion, it can lock the plaster together. I then push Toupret Flex...

If the tin doesn't say Dulux Trade, Crown Trade, etc, avoid it. Rocktop? I haven't used it. I am an old skool decorator and try to push my customers towards oil based finishes. @Wayners has far more experience of waterbased finishes on timber so I will defer to him. I would however add that...

I don't have a dog in this fight. Regular LVT has the advantage of being easy to remove and replace. You just need a heat gun to soften it and then pull up any damaged areas before glueing down the new section.