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son is buying a new house and we are looking for a wireless alarm. The most recent recommendations thread is a couple of years old and technology moves on. I have fitted a couple of wired systems in the past. Will probably need 4 pairs and a door contact or 5 pairs, may want to add camera in...

Took the fire out and the back doesn't come off - the front does. LED driver has 240V input but negligible output depite claims of 21V output so it has failed. Valor's unit looks like it comes cabled so you have to unthread all the cables to the LEDs, a bare unit would allow just awitching the...

Not quite that simple. looked at fire Sunday and no sign of lamp, spoke to valor and it is the LED driver that they think has failed - £80 from valor as a valor spare and Valor won't provide an exploded diagram of the fire so they want me to all out an enginer - a new fire is cheaper than that...

As above and expected this to be a simple bulb to change. Manual says call valor . . . Is it just a bulb or is it more complex?

New battery fitted last night, CEF don't carry Yuasa anymore but got it for just under £20. The one fitted is showing very slight bulging to some of the cells and has been in 4-5 years, didn't write the installation date on it last time but wife says it is before she started her current job...

I have changed the battery 2 0r 3 times since we moved in, will get one on the way home tonight

We have a Veritas 8 (maybe 8+) installed around 12 years ago (before we bought the house). A couple of weeks ago it would not set - Wife could not get the keypad to do anything. When I got in lifted the cover on the keypad (sounders went off) and eventually by pressing reset it started working...

Have mitred once but with ceramic tiles on a wet cutter - it does look better. Try one and see how it goes. Only issue is that the corners have to be true (vertical in both planes)

Finally managed to work out the new system. First is doorway into the conservatory and looks OK. Was an external door before we fitted the consevatory. It is a UPVC door/Frame. Second is the side door - straight outside. Nothing under the polythene after a couple of days and it looks as if...

One has concrete and I can't see a DPC although there is a big crack in line with the inner face of the wall that has been filled with some mortar, the other looks like bricks and I can see the edge of a black platic DPC/membrane which is vertical in line with the inner face of the wall between...

The house is 13 years old and has a concrete floor. As part of a kitchen renew have recently lifted ceramic tiles and in one of the doorways (2 external doors) in line with the cavity/inner skin of the wall the concrete under the tiles was damp (Looked dark and colour lightened over the next...

Too much hassle to post a picture It has no-where for a fuse bt does say on it "Property of MEB" and is made by MEM. Is marked as a 100A DP switch.

To Answer BAS "No it wasn't - when it was built it was new." be pedantic then. "Do you know what type of cable? " Being pedantic - two grey one or green/yellow Have not looked at ends but looks very much like 2 x 25mm or bigger copper single core with grey sheath probably over...

Seeing this thread started me thinking . . http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/rerouting-electric-supply-cabling.432008/ Our house is around 12-13 years old and as far as I can tell was built this way - we have lived there for 11 years. The meter is in an external box on the garage wall...

That looks like an old house to me, carpet may be the only floor insulation it had and polishing the concrete, or tiling, might leave you with a very cold floor.

Check the instructions for the light, there is probably a clearance between the light and the plasterboard and unless the wall is unusually thick there is unlikely to be enough clearance.

When you re-bard you should aim to have joints over the joists if possible, it is not the end of the world if you can't with T&G all round boards except at the edges which is why the builders put them at the edge.

All the dry lining boxes I have used have a lip which sits on the surface of the board. I tend to set this into the plasterboard so it is flush. Would make this situation look much better

The noggins are to stiffen the floor, they don't really carry any load. The joists carry the floor loading. 100x50 (4"x2" in imperial) as suggested by Ree is fine for noggins. If you look at the wall edge you will see where the builders put noggins in, don't go smaller than that and you...

Whose Newels/spindles are you intending to use? Burbidge run a design service and help line for theirs. Is that a made up string?