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Just typing as you replied. Brought saw inside house, nice dark room. I can see a spark. So carb is a pattern item as original was ££££ I don’t use the saw all that much but when I do i need it working and a £££ original doesn’t make sense. Pattern carb has left hand thread so all the way to...

The photo shown was from internet as i put it back together. New carb was fitted same time as engine First post mentioned once running i would set this screw for tick over Why do you say not ignition ?

Whilst im waiting i noticed when the choke is set to be on the flap isnt shutting 100% so ive bent the metal rod a touch so now it does.

Anybody know about checking the coil ? Meter set to 200 ohms Connection from coil metal body to kill switch spade terminal My reading is 02.2 Primary Winding THEN Meter set to 20K Connection from coil metal body to plug lead inside cap My reading is 10.16 Secondary Winding Like shown in photo

It is the wire mentioned above. The yellow wire is mounted to the top of the coil & travels down to a connection. The black wire goes to the coil itself & also travels down by this connection. The connection between the two are made by a spring like piece of metal that it attached to the chock...

@jj4091 which section you referring to in the pdf ?

The stop switch being the black kill Wire to coil ? If so above mentioned it yes.

I agree with spark Lines of piston were maybe more than expected So coil is ordered, anything else spark related i can check ?

End of last season i was unable to start my MS170 so i left it until the new year when its going to be used again. Looking in the port when carb removed i could see some scoring on the piston, probably as my mix used is 40:1 So ive decided to just fit a new complete engine unit, see photo...

Ive removed bar & chain then clip / clutch drum etc & see there is a cut out notch in the clutch drum. The spring leg needs to locate in that cut out notch. Then when engine is running & clutch drum spinning the spring leg also spins thus operating the oil pump.

I assume that is what the part is called ? See attached photos. I’ve fitted a new cylinder block/ piston assembly to my MS170 After I finished crying as the new item had 5mm threads & wasn’t the same as my original I then need to ask this question. I removed the clutch & then behind was a...

DG was to expensive & property up for sale. Im now painnting the frame

My kitchen has a conservatory attached. Between the two the window in the kitchen was removed years ago but now I wish to put something back. The opening is say 5ft x 3 1/2ft but the window will only be about 1meter square & the other part will be a few shelves. I’ve made a 3 x 2 frame then...

Running fine

Done. I cut away a little of the plastic that the brass jet passes through. Managed to get a hole through it & see daylight. Put it back into the black part & touched edges with soldering iron & made a good contact with black plastic & brass part. Short video...

It’s well blocked. I’ve removed it from the plastic part as had no choice. Any reason why I can’t leave it out & just refit the black plastic part ?

Wont budge. My needle jet cleaner will go in so far & thats it. So not sure if its same size hole all the way through or tapered. Compressed air does nothing

OK ive removed that plastic part & the small hole is blocked At the bottom is a brass part, i assume that needs to be clear

So remove & clean item by blue arrow

So going by reply above the dripping fuel from below carb / air filter was due to me pushing primer bulb numerous times thinking it was squirting fuel in. So now I take onboard it’s just a squirt of air I press it once or twice & go to start mower. Today the gasket arrived & I’ve now fitted...