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The fundamental difference between 21's and 22's is output. The greater depth, as mentioned, is to accomodate 2 sets of fins rather than 1. With 2 sets of fins the functional output of a given size of rad is greater in relation to the depth that the rad will sit from the wall. Again though it...

From my experience I've never had any issue with Stelrad - did you buy direct from them or from another supplier? I get mine direct from a well known factor who are Stelrad Accredited, who deliver them with their own vans/staff. I've only ever had 2 received damaged, one where the end and top...

With rads it all really comes down to correct sizing to cover the space's heat loss and then the rest is just down to aesthetics.

Absolutely - there is no common approach and every one seems to contradict everyone else these days, doesn't make it easy. As suggested I just go with what is known to work and that can actually be different tray/surface dependent

It all seems to depend on the manufacturer that is detailing the installation method as to what they ask for. That is 4 different methods that they ask for when it comes to MSC trays and then in the plumbworld link they do say to use Installation compound adhesive, even using a contact...

I'm always one for using a silicone adhesive for tray's these days, especially for flat bottomed trays - having been asked to fit a few of these lightweight SMC moulded trays more recently though they do seem to follow a similar process as the formers do, where they are used more as a wet room...

I believe they recommend a flexible adhesive for setting down moulded trays. The sub floor does need to be level though so the tray sits flat on it and all the adhesive is doing is setting it down. The adhesive shouldn't be used to level out the tray, given the slightly flexible nature of the...

'Fraid not - Certainly not in the UK - Our stop taps use a compression screw to push a brass rubber topped 'jumper' down onto a valve seat, it uses that compressive force to seal the rubber washer to the valve seat to stop the water flow

Soldering with a slip coupler would always be the best but if you're diy'ing then a compression slip coupler may be the solution for you.

Stelrad are the only ones I found that do K2 (Type22) vertical rads like that. The others are all column or designer tubular type rads.

The only other thing I would mention is that if a system refuses to settle down after repeated attempts and constantly corrodes and the pipe is plastic it may be time to check the class of the pipework. Some earlier systems may have been piped up with non barrier pipe. The pipe is gas permeable...

I sometimes wish I had the equipment to be able to cut open old rads and see what's going on. The system I had that problem with had been leaking underfloor for such a long time and the client had just constantly added water to re-pressurise, this had been going on for a long time and the system...

It sure would, it has, in effect a pumped outflow. Not surprised it's doing it given the way that waste is all setup. As suggested, get rid of that multibowl grey waste, it is one of the reasons for the issue. Run a single trap off of the left hand sink and then a new waste pipe run back and...

Absolutely - Build the cabinet, then screw the hook clips onto the front panel and the retainers onto the cabinet so they are set correctly, then unscrew either the retainers or the hook clips. Then remove the front panel as normal and remove the dowels and unscrew the cam pins.

Most are removable as they are a flat pack kit as the cams can unlock and the front pulled off as most flat pack kits do. You can get the hook clips that allow the front to be removeable by sliding up though. You can also get the clips to allow the top panel to be pulled forward. It makes a huge...

I think that everyone uses polymer adhesives now just because they are there and available. Me, I think it's a bit of an overkill, I've used silicone sealant for as long as, without any issues, it's a little more flexible and has a bit more give when it comes to acrylic baths so I don't see any...

Right

Nothing you can do about that drain in the floor unless you cut open the floor and move it. Building a plinth would be the easiest way to go by the looks of it.

Yup - relatively easy. As long as they have removable fronts that pull up and off, some don't and they keep changing these things. If it isn't they can be a pain to fit the pan with the flush pipe and pan connector and to and get everything checked, tested and dry. So much easier when the...

OK - there's the problem, it's a shallow bath trap. Whoever changed the outside works and removed the hopper didn't check the bath trap. That would have been fine with a hopper, given it's now a longer waste run with a vertical section then it will pull on that shallow seal. I don't think...