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Yip, couldn’t agree with you more. I’ve posted before about the old trick of marking your tile heights on your 1800 level in whiteboard marker pen, then putting that level on the wall and moving it up and down to find the best compromise of the heights .

Thanks Rusty, I’m coming round to that way of thinking. Buying 6 x 4 decent thickness stuff, pressure treated, and in ‘privacy’ screen ( 2” squares to me and you) is £1.50 more than what I can get just the wood for. Manufacturer via Fleabay

I had similar problem last year, though not a bosch. Engineer traced the fault to a broken wire in the wire harness which flexes every time the door is opened and closed. He told me it's a very common problem.

I was too scared to ask that ! Window top and bottom, and top of door ?

I can't comment too much on the choice of wood ' down below ', but as a tiler...... Using Hardibacker as your substrate for tiling is in theory a good idea, as tiles love it and it's great to tile onto. In practice, there are a few things to be aware of :- whilst it's easy to cut by ' score...

Very strange ! Have you looked inside the top bracket to see if that's the same ?

One option is to drill into the remaining screw head with a large drill bit diameter, say 10mm, till you've opened the hole enough to get the bolt off. Then see what's left and decide if you can either remove it by unscrewing with e.g. Pliers or molegrips, or you decide " if they're not coming...

Hi guys, I'm looking for some advice please on the viability & tools for making your own Trellis & Lattice panels...... I've a couple of projects around the garden, and thinking of making my own Trellis panels, as well as a lattice type fence. I can get loads of 19 x 38 pressure treated wood...

I agree with Foxhole; try an inflatable one first before committing to real money. I had one for 3 years, up to and including the first lockdown, and absolutely loved it, especially in the rain. Loved to go open water swimming in it ….

I’ve never seen a washing machine hose with a swivel connector on the end of it before. Do they exist ?

Good result

Is it ? IMHO, and looking at the photo, the water is pouring out from behind the head, and running over it. If the head has been off, and you screw that back on WITHOUT using a spanner to tighten it, then all you will do is turn the head until it is reasonably tight, then it will just rotate...

Oops ! Just re-read and noticed you've already had it off ! I reckon you've put it back on, on the wrong thread.......... ?

Have you tried tightening it ? Hold the pipe just above the showerhead with one hand, and turn the shower head round with the other hand. If that partly fixes it then it shows it's a screwed on head - either get a spanner on to it ( there will be two flat faces hidden but immediately behind...

With second thoughts, depending on what you find when you take off the panels? at the showerhead end, you may be looking at boarding more than one wall !

As these are floor tiles, and potentially quite sharp and very dangerous, you have two options :- 1. Lift them up ( preferred and best option) 2. Cover them up, until 1.above can be done. A couple of sheets of cheap hardboard with or without a top layer ( e.g. Lino) will at least make it safe...

There are a few ways to this, a few of us will have different ideas.......... I would just go for the quickest and easiest option : 25 mm battens on the wall, with standard 12mm plasterboard. No need for fancy backerboards or tanking at that end. In theory, that makes it a couple on mm short...

That’s a well trained rat. What paper was he reading ? Lol

I thought Highwayman was the db’s ? ( or is it just him that thinks that ) lol

I would have went 4x4 on the base framing. That's not gonna flex in any direction.