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I've done and taught most types of welding (ex pipeline welder) It really depends on what you intend doing. Stick together a few bits of mild steel mig would do it, though Stick welding (M M A) is still worth considering. Add aluminium or stainless tig would be way to go you can also braze...

Yep loose the rubber seal, loctite 55 wound on so there is plenty up to shoulder on tee Wind in job done.

Assuming you mean the joint from the tee into towel warmer? Loctite 55 is what we use never had a screwed fitting leak with 55 you can even 'back' it if needed.

I would suggest the clue is in the name 20/30 maybe KW? Your really need to do proper heat loss calculations to determine required size of your new boiler. Don't buy a oil boiler that starts with a W !

From memory your time switch is on a common backplate. So anything that uses that should fit straight on. We tend to use EPH stuff good price very reliable and 5 year warranty.

As above if you're going to with a heat pump just go for it. You can easily re jet the burner down to 15kw from memory it's a .45/80°EH nozzle needed 8 bar pump pressure you may need a disk on air intake. We have got a couple of the small Grant's running on .40/80°EH nozzles on small systems.

We take him old one to copy but also take careful measurements of where it fits .

That's exactly what we do have a local metal basher make them up.

As valve was changed by BG less than a month ago maybe get them back?

Your pipework won't be 25mm it's either 28mm or more likely 22mm.

From memory they are intended for solid fuel only. Maybe try contacting Harworth Heating they have made conversations even new heat exchanges for rayburn cooker range. harworthheating.co.uk

We use the INSUduct system to bring water services into buildings less digging and ducting. I'd be looking to take pipework tight under floor joists suitably insulated. Wouldn't use mdpe internal would swap to correct sized mlcp.

If your having to top up with immersion heater your probably OK just monitor temperature. We have occasionally had to increase size of heat leak when customers have started using less hot water and still ran cooker hot. Make sure to keep burner serviced we do some 3 to 4 times a year depending...

I installed a few of them back in mist's of time. We always installed them as a indirect system with a small rad or towel warmer. As your system is now it probably depends on your hot water usage if your going to have problems or not. I certainly wouldn't run cooker on high setting for...

As suggested try cleaning up a bit Looking at age of pipework that may just be a spring loaded safety valve covered in crud.

The answer is sort of depends! What model rayburn? Is it a purpose built oil one or converted solid fuel? What size is your hot water cylinder? Is it direct or indirect? Clear pictures would be useful.

Have to say while that's obviously fine on your system its certainly not a universal cure. I've seen many system with that arrangement some are very clean others some of dirtiest systems you have seen. I've seen the tee blocked with debris. Also notorious slow refilling system.

As above get rid of that aerjec and repipe to H section. They are the work of the devil try sticking a magnet on pipework near it.

Assuming you do have 240v to receiver could well be faulty. We've changed a few not got best reputation.