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The regs do recognise that some upgrades woud not be cost effective and don't therefore insist. IIRC they lay down a 7 year payback on the possible savings vs cost but I have never had an issue in 20+ years of designing. You can always stick a bit of extra insulation in walls or ceiling if...

Normal hinges plus gas struts would do you.

You've been given people's opinions, OP. Up to you to a accept or ignore but you don't seem to want to?

It's a change of use so that would mean PP. You'd also need a proper stair to a bedroom.

So which was it 40mm out or 100?

OK yes you can hire small crushers. You're below dpc so water retention not an issue, What floor is going in: if a ground bearing slab then you need to make sure your fill is compacted and a simple way forward would be to pack the stone in like a dry stone wall so it becomes a rigid lump or you...

Clay don't drain very well so the 1cube per 30sqm doesn't work. I wouldn't touch the existing which is quite possibly totally legit in your circumstances if you had a sensible bco. Shed? Shove a water butt beside it. Chambers: you really want them at changes of direction but for just sw and...

I like to think I can do most things but I do struggle with plastering. I had this stair problem in one of our rentals and my solution was to rip some very thin strips of wood just a couple of mm thick on the table saw and tack them to the bottom of the stairs then another couple of layers at...

Not an issue with just .water but solids can very definitely build up where the flow is not nice and smooth: we had it on a new build some years ago where flow from a side branch can into a chamber too fast and stuck to the opposite side of the base`

150 bed and haunched behind in a single operation is the old school way of kerb and edging laying. DIY you're probably better off laying a 150 strip allowing yourself 10mm for mortar then bed the kerbs like bricks

Why would you ever consider a beam & block floor unless there was an engineering reason?

You want 65 min screed over pir and I prefer to see 75 and your plaster is going to be rather thicker than your sketch

Good stuff there from Tony. One additional comment: bottom notching is potentially more deleterious than top as the bending will tend to open a split from the notch. A wrqp with builders band would prevent this.

Base for a big umbrella?

Sheep.

Are there no spares lurking anywhere. I leave any spares I have under kitchen cabinets or behind bath panels

If the roofers thought there was any risk then I'll bet they would have painted you a black picture to get extra work sorting it out.

You can treat the rust and use an epoxy repair mortar. RE Harry's point: concrete is chemically alkaline so steel only rusts when moisture gets to it hence the importance of adequate cover, proper compaction and where applicable properly formed construction joints.

Drat!! Corrected: thanks Robin

I'm a touch confused here. You are right to say you need an SE, but who has specified the 1m pads at this point? Are they the right size? A lot depends on how deep you have to go, what the structure on top is like and what structures adjoin the boundary. Your SE will (hopefully) look at...