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I can pick up a pressure gauge at weekend - worth doing ?

I’m afraid I don’t know the pressure - but I think it’s reasonable. I did measure the flow (in summer) and I think it was >10L/min. D

Thanks for info on calibration I will have another look; I’m still unsure if this is the issue. When I wind the thermo-cartridge adjustment all the way in (ignoring the 40degC mark) - it’s still tepid. The calibration process seems to be more about aligning the dial than increasing the...

Thanks @denso13 - if I turn it all the way without the chrome handle fitted, it still doesn’t get hot enough. The instruction booklet mentions calibration by removal of red clip and adjusting dial to get a measured 40degC then refitting. Unless I’m missing something, that process seems to be...

@denso13 - I’ve changed the thermo-cartridge (for a genuine new part) with mixed results. The good; it’s smoother and the hot/cold transition ’thump’ has gone. The not so good; the max temperature is notably cooler (tepid/warm at best). If I turn off the cold isolation valve when shower on -...

Thanks @denso13 (again). True enough - it could be shot. I did wonder that I’m getting hot through it now only because I can rotate it further (with dial dismantled). And that this might be to do with water pressure / combi boiler. Best D

Thank you @denso13. Best D

Hi. Where my combi condensate and pressure relief pipes come through the internal wall from airing cupboard, I’ve got (bigish) blow-outs of render and plaster. I’m guessing these pipes aren’t going to expand/contract as often as say radiator pipes. I’ve got some Gyproc Easifill, OneStrike...

I gave it another 2hrs soak - it’s marginally improved but still ‘thumping’. If I wind it (temp dial) all the way in it gets too hot, then as I back it off, at about half way, it goes ‘thump’ - the temperature drops (too cold) and the water flow notably increases. I’m mindful that when the...

Hi there - I’ve been having some trouble with a mixer shower; no hot water. The shower has not been used for a while - I’ve removed the thermo-cartridge and cleaned out the gritty bits. I’ve soaked cartridge for couple of hours in a citric acid solution. I’m now getting hot through but as I...

Thank you @EFLImpudence. I think with the ‘cable guide’ and then some filler - it won’t go far. Thanks D

Further to original post and helpful advice (@Sureitsoff?, @pete01 & @EFLImpudence), I’ve cut in three back boxes to my plaster board on stud wall. I’ve made small vertical drop channels of about 65mm to feed the First fix T&E down into each box so my electrician can fit / wire the flex-outlet...

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Thank you @denso13. I was kinda leaning more towards the non corrosive view. D

I’ve been having a go with the marsh-mallow type fillers and they generally work okay but in some instances expanding foam might be a lot quicker. Anyone have a view on the expanding foam and copper pipes malarkey ? Thanks D

Thank you - @Sureitsoff? I’m using them for task lighting over a (kitchen) worktop. Good to know I’ve got some flexibility to add. Best D

After I’ve transitioned the first fix T&E to a white 0.75 heat resistant flex, I need to tidily run it maybe 300mm to the top of an exposed beam. I’ll run it along the top of beam maybe a metre where I plan to have a single 6W LED GU10 light. In the event I need to ‘daisy chain’ another light...

Thank you @Sureitsoff? - I’ll have a look for those too. Regards D

Thank you @pete01 and @EFLImpudence - it didn’t occur to me to use the connections already provided in a flex-outlet plate. I was thinking only about the plate to conceal the Wago terminations / neat transition to flex but what you’ve suggested is better. I’ll look again and see what I can...

I’m having some lights installed in a kitchen. So far only the first fix is in - I’ve got T+E popping out through plasterboard in roughly the right areas. I need to get some surface mounted wires up onto a couple of beams where it would be easier to install white round 0.75mm flex. Once on...