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Thank you for taking the time to write such a detailed response. Looking at the gaps/ingress. It looks like after stacking equipment, tools etc against the outside walls it has allowed water to track across the joins and naturally find its way inside. The timber is still sound and showing no...

I did wonder about this, that way the foil layer would be better at reflecting the heat back in. The only thing i thought is I would not be able to tape the foil side. Would you still tape the backs of the panels?

The main reason for heating is during the colder months. It's likely to be heated by an electrical heater of sorts. This will run on cheaper night rate electricity and excess solar.

Which part of the OP would you propose. The PIR or rockwool? I appreciate I would need a heat source, it's likely to be a an electrical heater of some sort. As I have battery storage and cheap night rate that will significantly lower the cost. I was just hoping to retain some of the heat with...

To be fair log cabin would have probably been a better description. The main reason to insulate is to help retain the heat but there also a couple of joins starting to fail so I wanted to add a second layer of protection.

Herea a shot of the outside and inside to give you a better idea. It's just overlapping timber, no cavity or existing insulation

I've just being doing some more research, would the vapour check layer on the outside of the external wall not trap the hot warm air from inside in the timber? I am starting to wonder if I would be better suited to either putting the solid slab rockwool or batton and rockwood roll, then...

I'm sorry, I'm a little confused now, there is no plasterboard. The room is build from single layer solid 44mm timber all around (if that makes sense) I've just googled vapour check later, this makes sense. I would install that straight onto the existing timber outside to slow the release of...

It's just the timber frame. I was hoping to work completely outside, firstly to save losing space and secondly to save having to redo all the electrics.

The warm air into the timber frame was the bit I was trying to work out. I have an old single block house so am very used to using dehumidifiers and allowing the circulation of fresh air. As it stands I have insulted the floor with PIR. The same for the roof, PIR boards in-between the rafters...

It was based on some videos I'd seen online. My original choice was the PIR. So if I went with the PIR. It would be PIR (foil side facing out, foil tape all joints), membrane on top, batten and then cladding. If that's correct, my last question is would you recommend the plastic or metal...

Thanks for the response. My local builders merchant does accoustic rockwool boards rather than the rockwool that comes in a roll. Yes, vertical batons and horizontal cladding. If I go down the rigid insulation route where does the membrane sit in the layers?

Thanks for the response. My local builders merchant does accoustic rockwool boards rather than the rockwool that comes in a roll. Yes, vertical batons and horizontal cladding. If I go down the rigid insulation route where does the membrane sit in the layers?

Hi all, I was just looking for a basic layer guide to externally insulating my existing garden room. For reference the existing building is made up of 44mm timber. I was thinking (starting from wall externally) rigid 100mm Rockwall screwed straight to existing timber using screws and discs(no...

Thank you for you're response. I assumed stud walls to allow a frame to fit the PIR. Looking now I could fix the PIR straight to the timber. What's the best fixing method. Screws, adhesive? I've not looked to much into heating yet. One possibility would be an Aircon unit for hot and cold.

I have a log cabin/garden room I'm looking to insulate and make more use off. My preference would be to insulate from the outside to save losing space inside. I was planning to build stud walls and insulate with 75mm or 100mm PIR, membrane,baton and tongue and grove cladding all the way around...

Okay that makes sense. Would all parts of the floor need to be slight shy of the wall or just the PIR and OSB and then take the vinyl/laminate to the wall?

I've trying to get some info on floating floors and a lot of the reference material is about laying laminate. I was wondering if someone can clarify what is actually meant. I understand that if I put timbers across at 450mm intervals this is where I am likely to get thermal bridging as this is...

Okay I wasn't aware of that I'll look into floating floors. Thank you. The door frame is raised already so I'm hoping to get away with 50mm PIR and the OSB and still be below.

Hi all, I'm looking for some advice regarding converting an existing garden room. My house has an timber garden room which has mainly been used for storage since we moved in. Now I'm looking to make it more of a room and something that can be used all year round. My first job is to insulate...