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That's brilliant, thanks Tim. I don't want to sound dim, but I'm still curious as to how you cut that with a coping saw? Isn't it fairly hard plastic? I can do the mitre no problem. I guess I could use a round file to cut away the material to get the overlap.

Thanks Tim, any examples or videos? I'm just surprised that someone would go to the effort to do this, hence the reason for asking if there was a pair of shears I could buy? I've used coping saws on ogee skirting before but can't see how you'd use that for window cloaking? Maybe I'll just go...

Wow, I never would have thought somebody would route some cloaking. I do have a router but this seems a little extreme.

Here's another photo. Blimey, the door frame looks grubby close up :eek:

Okay, I'll grab another one tomorrow. In the meantime, the top horizontal piece looks to be a normal flat piece of trim but the vertical piece seems to have a profile on it to slot into the horizontal piece.

Hello, I fitted a window at the weekend and have some cloaking to do. I noticed some of the existing cloaking on my other windows had a nice overlapping join. Just wondered how that is achieved and if I need a certain pair of shears or something?

Thanks Luke, I haven't been able to do any electrical testing yet. I was thinking about just taking the punt and trying it but haven't got around to it yet. Have you swapped out what I have before or you just know it'll work from experience?

Thanks, I will take a look and see how I get on.

I'm not getting very far here. I emailed Heatmiser and they said they need to know the resistance at each temperature? Can anyone help me here and let me know how I get this? I've seen a few video's on youtube where people test the heat mat resistance with a multimeter but I'm guessing this...

Okay, hmm, not sure where to go with this then. I have an electrician coming out at some point, I will check to see if he knows or can measure.....

Just got off the phone to Heatmiser. They said it should work but I need to test that I have at least 10k resistance on the current unit?

Ah, what does that entail (tiled floor)?

I've had a rummage through the paperwork left from the previous owners and have actually found the instructions. It's a Homelux LCD thermostat. I've attached the spec sheet below. Can anybody advise if the existing heat mat will work with this Neostat...

Thanks, I'll take a look tomorrow and see what I can find out.

Excellent, I'm planning on making my Heatmiser wet UFH smart in the summer, so this will presumably hook into that nicely. Just done a bit if further reading and it's been suggested that swapping a thermostat for another might not be straight forward. Can anyone advise? Thanks everyone.

Thanks, I have Heatmiser elsewhere, so I'll take a look. So, can somebody just confirm that these are interchangeable with the electric UFH?

Can I just replace for any then? Any guidance as to what's a good one to go for?

It's under a tiled floor. I did unclip the case hoping to find a model number but nothing.

Hello, I moved in last year and I've always struggled programming this thermostat. Does anyone have any idea which model it is? I have a similar one in the house which is a Prowarm but this one's different. Thanks

I see this thread has sparked a bit of debate. So just to summarise for a non-electrician, I think what you're saying is.... I have no choice but to use 2 core as the switches don't support the use of an earth cable (I'm assuming this is because they are plastic and don't need one) and are...