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Yes. Looks like I can just take the neutral from there?

It's one kitchen ceiling light, 2 switches to control it. One switch is behind the fridge and this is where the outdoor light switch is. So I'll be moving both by a few cm if I go ahead with this work. I'll have to take the pictures later. But as far as I know, it's all wired the standard way.

Next to each other! How do I alter the wiring to get a neutral? There are 2 wires to the switch. One should stay unchanged to get the live feed. The other goes to the outdoor light. It's going to be unused after I will run a cable to the new light, but there's not much I can do with it...

It's probably at a ceiling rose, and probably the one in the kitchen as this is where the outside light switch is. But there is a tiled bathroom above, so the ceiling rose is not accessible. There's only live in the switch and switched live out.

I have an existing outdoor light which stopped working. However, it is not accessible to replace as there is a plastic roof in front of it. I was thinking of running a cable from the switch to a new outdoor light in an accessible location. It's easy enough to disconnect the current switched...

Is that the normal way of doing it - using a junction box? Or maybe the light was designed to be plugged in instead and I'm just trying to adapt it? I'd have thought you would connect the cable straight into the light fitting, as you do with most other lights... I haven't bought one yet, trying...

Forgot to mention that the circuit is part of the lighting and there is already a switch connected. The electrician just left the end of the cable unconnected until I find an appropriate light. That was a few years back! So I don't think there is a need for an FCU or fuse?

I want to connect a strip light to the mains cable which conveniently runs up to the cabinet. The strip light ends in bare cable, something like in this pic: https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/9239/strip-light-284mm/dp/PL10026?st=kitchen%20cabinet%20lights How do I connect the light cable to the...

The problem is not about the wall being damaged but the lack of access to direct the flame where needed as the joint will be slightly within the wall. Yorkshire fitting might work if I can see the ring of solder being formed. Not sure if I can see that far. I've seen such setups with end feed...

I have a copper pipe going up a wall, then through it and up again. The pipe through the wall is sleeved within another pipe to protect it from corrosion and wall movement. How do I solder both elbow fittings at each end of the pipe that goes through the wall? Part of the fitting is slightly...

If it's a plastic pipe, it will expand significantly, so you can't plaster directly over it. I think standard practice is to run it within another pipe? However, how do you clip the pipe to the wall if it's within another pipe? Being plastic and heated, it will sag a lot otherwise. For copper...

When piping 2 heating zones, each controlled by a 2 port valve, do you run a return pipe for each zone or can the 2 zones share one, especially if the return pipe for one zone is near the rads for the other zone? My guess is that they should be separate to prevent heat convection within the...

I can't figure out the setting for hot water only. I only see the option for CH + hot water or turn the boiler off. Is there something like summer mode or boiler on without heating? The selector switch on the right doesn't seem to do much. I think it's supposed to be a timer?

They don't sell in 15mm pipe size. Anyway, although it is the right product, it is overkill to use this for a short run of pipe and a single rad. As long as there's enough insulation, the pipes will be fine.

Why is it so bad to use the spray foam as insulation? I'm happy to use the other one but just wondering. the more insulation the better if I get to fill the drain pipe with the foam.

Good idea. Isn't that spray foam good enough to replace the other pipe insulation?

Difficult to stop it being in wet ground if I plan to bury it. Even in a drainpipe, water can still get to it... What's the insulation used to protect condensate pipes?

For protection against mechanical damage?

That's what I was looking at but this description didn't say anything. The project is to extend a central heating system into an external room very close. I plan to drop the pipe just below ground and insulate. Is there anything else I need to be aware of?