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I don't see why any installer couldn't [or shouldn't] explain a breakdown of costs and why that is considered to be too intrusive. To try and answer this question from a homeowner perspective- installation of unit/base, drilling through for primary pipework. Insulation of external pipework...

The heatgeek efficiency guarantee will be the SCOP (annual) as well. Only one way the heatgeek quote will be going presumably once they do a survey, and they may well be sizing up the unit afterwards. That octopus quote will be very difficult to beat I think. The proposed unit sizing looks...

@Avocet I'd be very tempted by that octopus quote- more emitter changes and a potentially significant saving in install costs to put towards a battery. I found heatgeek definitely at the more expensive end when we were getting quotes. We didn't go with octopus as they couldn't do a bespoke quote...

The way you can make a time of use tariff work with an ASHP is by: - having battery storage and charging it during off peak to get you through 1600 to 1900, and/or - pre heating or rather essentially over heating your house during the cosy dips. This can be achieved by using a smart controller...

You are missing the standing charge from your calculations I believe.

The rest of your post doesn’t make too much sense, but to answer this specific question, for our house: Pre install around 20000kW gas and 3500kW electricity per year. Post install around 9500kW electricity. No gas now. Induction hob. Both of these equate to £220 ish per month cost wise on...

@WalksWithTurkeys …fair question. We had quite a few quotes before embarking on our installation in our [badly insulated] house a couple of years back. A few of these companies offered the ‘premium’ option of the vaillant, or something like the ecodan or in one case a clivet rebadged midea, at...

Nothing wrong with cheaper brands like midea etc (in fact the bosch is or certainly was just a rebranded midea). You will pay a hefty premium for Vaillant, as in several thousand, and I'm not convinced it is worth it.

I’ve recently done a similar job. I used a Bihui 1200W variable speed angle grinder. I have a set speed one but wouldn’t want to use it for this type of thing as they are pretty ferocious. The variable one is much better and I could set it on one of the lower speeds which was more than ample. I...

Anti clockwise to open and you can use pliers. I normally use an adjustable wrench. Yes- TRV sounds broken. I'd perhaps just remove the TRV heads from all your radiators and then go back to the boiler and see if it operates any better. I'm pretty sure it will if you open up both sides of each...

Too much flow restriction in the system will lead to short cycling. I would start by opening up your lockshields/TRVs on all of your emitters and see how you get on. The issue you describe with respect to change over from DHW to CH- when it does this the outlet flow temp is already high, so...

Subjective of course but no match for real wood or nice porcelain tiles. It is plastic based/composite after all. Any click lvt will be also be prone to the click system failing with the slightest of undulations. If it has to be lvt (which I personally don’t think it does) I’d definitely be...

Was just about to say the same thing. I have never seen a decent looking/durable click LVT floor...

Our house is suspended timber floors and I've gone for tiles in large areas. In my kitchen I have 900x900 format tiles with no issues. The tiles in my hallway have been down for 6 years now. Again fine. 6mm hardiebacker on layer of adhesive, screwed down. Taped joints between boards and tiles...

As you allude to it is a proper engineering job and not cheap to do it properly. When we did similar, it was two courses of blockwork, with rebar in the cavity (which was also anchored within the footings) and then infilled with concrete. We then had a separate drainage spec which was...

Try a bottle of leak sealer. It worked for us with a similar slow leak, and no ill effects.

Agree with above- 100% use epoxy grout in wet areas. Why anyone uses porous cementitous grout in shower areas, I personally don't understand. It is not only non porous but also much more structurally sound as well so far less prone to cracking. Taking into account what your builder has done...

heating our house with gas in winter was expensive. Pretty much cost neutral for us as said.

Just make sure emitter size is sufficient to match the heat loss, at reasonably efficient outlet flow temps. Then keep it running when cold outside, with no drastic setbacks.

Why does everyone think ashps are only suitable for highly insulated properties? We changed a quarter of our radiators. Poorly insulated house. Works fine. Granted it’s pretty cost neutral energy cost- wise so I wouldn’t install one expecting to save money necessarily (unless you have storage...